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Celebrating 20 years of The Royal Tokaji Wine Company

The Hungarian Girl | July 13, 2010 | 0 Comments

The Royal Tokaji Wine Company was the first foreign company to invest in the Tokaj region. Prior to 1989 under the Communist Regime, all Tokaji winemaking had been in the hands of a single state-run company. Photo courtesy of The Royal Tokaji Wine Company.

In 1990, The Royal Tokaji Wine Company was founded by a group of investors who were inspired to restore and preserve what they considered a dying art. With the assistance of well-known wine author Hugh Johnson they were the first to invest in Hungary’s legendary Tokaji region.

Tokaji in Hungarian, hailed as “the king of wines and the wine of kings” by King Louis XIV of France, has been produced for centuries in the north-east of Hungary, at the southern part of the Zemplén mountains. However, in 1949 as Hungary collapsed under Communist rule, wineries and vineyards were confiscated and nationalized. Wine was no longer produced according to quality but in favor of mass production for cheaper bottles. The result was devastating for Hungary’s wine industry.

Luckily, Tokaji was not beyond redemption. When Hungary became a democratic republic in 1989, foreign investment was poured into the region with the Royal Tokaji Wine Company leading the way. International Sales Director Ben Howkins recalls when the company was first developed, “Honestly… we had no idea where our initial enthusiasm would lead us. We knew we had something unique on our hands and we knew that if we handled the perception well, that we should bring Tokaj back into the fold of classic European categories such as Champagne, Port etc.”

Today, the Royal Tokaji Wine Company is considered one of the most esteemed wineries in the region if not the country. Their awarding-winning portfolio includes dry white Furmint, late harvest Ats Cuvee, 5 and 6 puttonyos aszu blends and single vineyard wines, Aszu Essencia and very limited quantities of Essencia.

The majority of Royal Tokaji’s vineyards are located in the Mád Basin which include 1st growths. Photo courtesy of The Royal Tokaji Wine Company.

The winery has also been noted for it’s top rated vineyards which were originally classified by Prince Rakoczi in the 1700s. The majority which are held in the Mád Basin and include 1st growths. The company has also sought out many of the same techniques and traditions of Tokaji wine making as it originally began centuries ago. The process at times can be challenging as Howkins explains, ” Tokaji wines are probably the most complicated wines to vinify because of the uncertainties of the aszu harvests that can genuinely vary 100% each year. The challenges are the aszu berries, the structure of the vineyards ownership and grape availabilities, the legal 3 year maturation process and forward planning to have the right wines available at the right time in the future.”

As the Royal Tokaji Wine Company plans to celebrate it’s 20th anniversary this year, there is still debate about Tokaji’s future. When asked why Tokaji is relatively unknown by many people especially in North America. Howkins explains how North America is their largest export. “We are brand leader in the USA but we are still scratching the surface. Our aszu wines will always be expensive and will always have a ceiling in availability, but we have not got there yet.”

So, what does the future hold for Tokaji’s most prestigious winery? The company plans to double production by opening a new €3.25 million winery in September. With increased production, it aims to promote further sales in its three largest markets; the United States, the UK and Europe. Howkins says, “Royal Tokaji is determined to continue to lead the Tokaji wine industry. Our new winery capabilities will now allow us to double our sales. We intend to continue to bring Tokaji wines into mainstream wine merchants, retailers and restaurants.”