This savory cheese spread is a favorite in Hungary. Almost every household has a special way of making it but the essential ingredients usually include “bryndza” (a type of sheep’s milk cheese), butter, paprika and herbs.

It’s best to prepare körözött the day before to allow the flavors to settle.

Ingredients

1/2 pound (236 grams) bryndza or soft farmers cheese
1/4 cup (113 grams) unsalted butter
1 tsp sweet Hungarian paprika
1/2 tsp prepared mustard
1/2 tsp crushed caraway seeds
chopped chives or parsley for garish

Directions

Mix together all ingredients. Let stand for several hours, or preferably overnight.

Serve as a dip or spread, with slices of rye bread or crackers.

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Exhausted and burned out from chasing the ever-elusive American dream, Jennifer Wilson and her husband Jim were desperately seeking a simpler, more connected life. Having lost half of their savings in the U.S. stock market crash in 2008, the timing seemed right to make some changes.

In the summer of 2009, Jennifer, Jim and their two children, Sam and Zadie, arrived in the Croatian mountain village of Mrkopalj to start over in the area where Jennifer’s great-grandparents had immigrated from 100 years ago. For several months they lived like locals, from milking the neighbor’s cows to eating roasted pig on a spit to seeking the village recipe for bootleg liquor. As the Wilson-Hoff family struggled to stay sane (and warm), what they found was much deeper and bigger than themselves.

We spoke with Jennifer about her newly-released book “Running Away to Home: One Family’s Journey to Croatia in Search of Who We Are, Where We Came From, and What Really Matters“, which explores her sabbatical abroad and how it changed her family.

What motivated you to return to the country of your great-grandparents?

Three major events in our lives converged that propelled us to Mrkopalj. The last of my immigrant relatives. Sister Mary Paula Radosevic, passed away and I inherited her personal papers. In them, I read about this little mountain village tucked away in the northwest corner of Croatia. At that same time, the economy was unraveling, and then-candidate Barack Obama was telling us all we’d have to return to our Nation of Immigrants values to get back on track again. It struck me that my generation doesn’t even know what that means anymore. Lastly, my husband Jim and I were feeling disconnected from each other, and from our two little kids, Sam and Zadie. Mrkopalj, Croatia, this faraway place that seemed like it had been suspended in amber for the past 100 years, with its little gnome houses and wide meadows and forested mountains, became my obsession.

How did your family initially feel about the decision to move there?

Jim was feeling restless at work–he was at one of those places where you have to call the boss to prove you need a sick day, and he was barely ever home to see us–so he was pretty easy to talk into this project, though he’s the sensible one of the two of us. My son Sam didn’t particularly want to leave, but he knew he wasn’t old enough to stay home alone or anything. My daughter Zadie was just happy that we’d all be together and she wouldn’t have to be in daycare for a year. And she was by far the heartiest traveler for the entire journey.

Jennifer, Jim and their two children, Sam and Zadie in Mrkopalj. Photo courtesy of Jennifer Wilson.

What were some of the challenges of living in a rural place like Mrkopalj?

We lived in Mrkopalj through the summer and fall of 2009, leaving before the winter which could be really harsh. (We spent the winter in Istria, writing a draft of the book). At first, it was tough for the high-strung American mom to adjust to life in the really really really slow lane. Every time I’d pull out my datebook to make a time to interview someone about village history, they’d start laughing at the very idea of having a planner in Mrkopalj. “Just drop by, we’ll be here!” they’d laugh, and then go back to sitting on the stoop or weeding the garden. But there wasn’t really anything too difficult, just surprising. The kids were a little taken aback at eating sheep from a spit, and I was a little freaked out about the sheer amount of alcohol consumption–though my husband dug right into that part of the culture. It was like a party all day long! But the women were always working. Always, always.

Surprisingly there were few really tough parts about Mrkopalj. The people in the village stepped up with that amazing Croatian hospitality from almost the very beginning, teaching me old recipes, and always trying to help us with the language. They felt so bad that I’d lost so much family history that I didn’t even know who my great grandparents had been … they just couldn’t understand that this was a common thing in America.

What was it like to reconnect with your relatives?

You know what surprised me most? How much it meant to them that we’d come back to meet them and get to know them. I mean, we crossed an ocean to find out what our ancestors would have to teach us, and it was major. But they treated me like an honored guest, and wept to see we’d come back. I just couldn’t believe that. It meant so much to them. They just don’t want to be forgotten, and we don’t want to forget either.

Viktor's barn. Photo courtesy of Jennifer Wilson.

Do you think this experience has changed the way your family now sees the world?

I think we’ve expanded our definition of family. We aren’t just a small unit here in Iowa. We have a village of 800 people in Croatia that feels just as much like family to us. We stay in touch with them. We love them. We are connected. As Americans, we can’t forget that we came from so many other countries. We are a Nation of Immigrants. We can’t forget that.

Would you recommend that others do the same?

That’s the best part about a travelogue–I did it so you don’t have to! You’ll experience the beauty and difficulty of such a journey in my book, all from the comfort of your favorite reading chair.

Now, if it’s your dream, yes, do it. But I don’t think it’s necessary to take a multi-month journey. Taking a visit of any length of time to the place where your family came from I think would move you to your core. Contact the tourism folks and let them know you’re coming, or look up connections on ancestry sites and see if you can get someone to meet you or help you on your journey. Try to connect before you get there, so someone will be waiting for you who can help guide you or give you some pointers. And feel free to contact me, too, on my website www.jennifer-wilson.com! I’m always glad to lend whatever insights I can — but the best ones are in the book, of course!

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Rigó Jancsi takes its name from a famous 19th century Hungarian Gypsy violinist, who according to legend, seduced and married Clara Ward, a wealthy American socialite. Rigó Jancsi created the pastry together with an unknown pastry chef to surprise Clara. Unfortunately, their love and marriage didn’t last long but Rigó Jancsi story was so touching that his cake became a celebration of his life.

Ingredients

Sponge cake:

1/2 cup (112 grams) butter, softened
3/4 cup (140 grams) granulated sugar
2 eggs
1 tsp (15 ml) pure vanilla extract
11/2 cups (195 grams) cake or pastry flour
1/4 cup (25 grams) cocoa powder
1 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp baking soda
1/2 tsp salt
3/4 cup (177 ml) milk

Chocolate glaze:

6 oz (187 grams) milk chocolate, chopped
1/2 cup (125 grams) unsalted butter

Chocolate mousse:

8 oz (250 grams) dark chocolate
1/2 cup (118 ml) milk
2 cups (474 ml) heavy cream
1 tsp (5 ml) pure vanilla extract
1 tbsp (15 ml) dark rum

Apricot glaze (optional):

1/2 cup (155 grams) apricot jam
1 tbsp water

Garnish:

Confectioners’ sugar

Directions

Sponge cake:

Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C).  Butter the bottoms and sides and insert parchment (baking) paper on a 8-by-2 inch square cake pan.

In a large bowl, beat butter with sugar until fluffy. Add the eggs 1 at a time, beating each addition until incorporated before continuing. Beat in vanilla. In separate bowl, sift together the flour, cocoa, baking powder, baking soda and salt.

Add the dry ingredients in 3 additions alternately with the milk in 2 additions, starting and ending with the dry ingredients. Beat until combined.

Pour the batter into the pan. Bake until the cake is puffed and a skewer inserted into the center comes out clean, 25 -30 minutes. Cool thoroughly.

Chocolate mousse:

In small saucepan, bring milk to boil and add chocolate. Whisk until smooth.

Using a hand or stand mixer with a bowl, whip heavy cream to medium stiff peaks. Fold in the melted chocolate, vanilla extract, and rum until completely incorporated.

Refrigerate until cold and mixture can mound on spoon.

Chocolate glaze:

In a small saucepan over medium heat, melt the chocolate and butter, stirring often. Remove from the heat and pour the glaze through a fine mesh sieve. Let cool before using.

Apricot glaze (optional):

In a small saucepan over medium heat, combine the jam and water and heat until the jam melts. Remove from the heat. Press through a fine-mesh sieve into a small bowl.

To assemble cake:

Carefully cut cake horizontally to form 2 layers. Pour the chocolate glaze over a layer. Add the chocolate mousse to the other layer. Combine the layers together.

Refrigerate the cake to set the glaze and the mousse. If desired, coat the top layer with the apricot glaze.

Slice cake into small squares. Sprinkle with confectioners’ sugar.

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Opened in 1876, Café Central was a key meeting place for intellectuals including Leo Trotsky, Adolf Loos, Vladimir Lenin and Sigmund Freud. Today, the café serves as a popular spot for both locals and visitors. Photo Courtney of Palais Events/Christian Husar.

Legend has it that coffee beans were left behind by the fleeing Turks in 1693 and by 1685 the first coffeehouse opened in the city.

But it wasn’t until the late 19th century when coffee houses became most influential upon Viennese society. Many writers, artists, and politicians claimed to have been influenced by coffee houses and the surrounding culture. The famous journal “Die Fackel” by Karl Kraus is said to have been written in coffee houses to a large extent. Renowned writer and poet Peter Altenberg even had his mail delivered to his favorite coffeehouse, the Café Central.

Today, coffee houses still hold a special place in the hearts and minds of the Viennese. It is still not uncommon to see the Viennese taking a break from their busy lives to enjoy a finely brewed coffee while relaxing or reading a newspaper at a café. Much of this can be attributed to a renewed interest as well as an increase in tourism which has helped to revival many of these formal establishments.

Types of Viennese coffees

Below are just a few of the most common types of Viennese coffees. Many of these beverages contain liqueurs, sweeteners, and syrups.

Einspanner - Sweet black demitasse, a strong black coffee, served in a glass with whipped cream and sprinkled with chocolate powder
Eiskaffee - Chilled coffee, vanilla ice cream, then topped with whipped cream and chocolate flakes
Espresso - Black coffee from the Espresso-machine
Fiaker - Mokka laced with a bit of cognac or rum and whipped cream
Grosser - Large cup of coffee with a dash of milk or whipped cream
Kaffee Maria Theresia - Mokka with orange liqueur and whipped cream
Kapuziner - A small amount of coffee mixed with a large amount of milk
Kurz - A single shot of espresso
Kleiner Brauner - Small cup of coffee with a dash of milk
Mazagran - Maraschino, spices and liquid sugar, served cold with ice-cubes in a special glass
Melange - Half coffee and half milk with a frothy crown
Schale Gold - Espresso with cream, served in a large cup
Schwarzer - Plain strong black coffee. Can be large (Grosser Schwarzer) or small (Kleiner Schwarzer)

Cakes and pastries

Sachertorte with a coffee at Café Sacher. This stylish coffee house is the original home of the Sachertorte chocolate cake. Photo courtesy of WienTourismus/Peter Koller.

Aside from great coffee, Vienna is also regarded for its cakes and pastries. Here are just a few that are commonly enjoyed with coffee.

Strudel - Sweet flaky pastry with apple, nut or sweet cheese filling
Beugel - Pastry croissant with nuts
Golatschen - Puff pastry with sweet cheese or jam filling
Marmorguglhupf - Ring shaped cake marbled with chocolate
Rehrücken - Chocolate cake
Rosinenguglhupf - Ring shaped cake with raisins soaked in rum
Sachertorte - Dense chocolate layer cake with a thin apricot coating in the center
Zimtschnecke - Spiral-shaped pastry with nut filling and sugar-coating

Traditional coffee houses

Many of these establishments serve light meals such as breakfast and lunch. It is not uncommon to see patrons linger for hours. Along with coffee, a glass of water is often provided to ensure patrons feel welcome and appreciated.

Café Central

This legendary café is situated in the center of Vienna across from the Hofburg Palace and the Spanish Riding School. Opened in 1876, Cafe Central was once a key meeting place for intellectuals including Leo Trotsky, Adolf Loos, Vladimir Lenin and Sigmund Freud. At the end of World War II, it lost popularity and closed for many years. It was restored and reopened in 1986.

Café Sperl

Established in 1880, Cafe Sperl is a memento of old Vienna with all of its original fittings intact with Thonet chairs, crystal chandeliers and marble tables. The atmosphere is quite cozy and laidback. In addition to a wide selection of coffees and cakes, there are two billiards tables and some dartboards are on the premises. It generally attracts a less touristy clientele than some of the more centrally located houses.

Café Sacher

Part of Vienna’s upscale Hotel Sacher, this stylish coffee house is the original home of the Sachertorte chocolate cake. Although it is clearly a chocolate cake with an apricot jam filling, the full recipe remains a secret. In the summer, the café is extended into an open terrace that provides an unrestricted view of the Opera House.

Café Mozart

Named after the monument to Mozart (now in the Burggarten) that once stood outside, Cafe Mozart has been a tradition since 1794. It gained international recognition as a location in the movie “The Third Man.” Besides coffee, five different versions of hot chocolate are offered.

Café Hawelka

Famous for its irresistible Buchteln (jam doughnuts), Café Hawelka has long attracted artists and local literati. The walls are decorated with paintings by followers of Vienna’s Fantastic Realism school, as well as works by later artists.

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Cucumber salad or uborkasaláta is a popular dish in Hungary that is usually served with main meals. It has a very light and refreshing taste. Some cooks like to sprinkle paprika on top as a garnish or add sour cream to enhance its flavor.

Ingredients

5 tbsp sugar
2 cups (474 ml) water
1/2 cup (118 ml) vinegar
3 large cucumbers, thinly sliced
1 clove of garlic, chopped
salt and pepper to taste
paprika for garnishing

Directions

For the dressing, use a small bowl to dissolve the sugar in water. Add the vinegar and complete the dissolving. Set aside.

In a large bowl, wash and thinly slice the cucumbers. Add the garlic and season generously with salt. Let stand for 15 minutes. Pour dressing over the cucumbers until just covered. Refrigerate for at least an hour or overnight if possible before serving. Garnish with paprika if desired.

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Designed by leading architect Samu Pecz in 1896, the Central Market Hall (Nagycsarnok) is Budapest’s largest and most popular indoor market situated on the Pest side of Liberty Bridge. During World War II the building suffered extensive damage and was only recently restored in the 1990’s along with the completion of its Zsolnay tiled roof.

Today, the three-storey structure contains more than 180 stalls that offer a wide range of foods and local specialties. The stalls on the ground floor sell fruits and vegetables, meats, and breads. Downstairs there is a supermarket, as well as vendors of fresh fish and pickled vegetables. Upstairs is filled with folk-art vendors, souvenir shops, and fast-food kiosks.

View of the Great Market Hall from above. The structure of the market is supported by steel columns and is adorned with large glass windows that allow natural light to illuminate the entire market.

Butcher and a patron. The market features a wide range of meat products including the famous Pick Salami.

Smoked ham, salami, bacon, and other meats. The most commonly consumed meat in Hungary is pork.

Locals sitting on a bench in the market. Despite its popularity with tourists, the market still remains a place for locals to hang out as well.

Peppers and garlic hanging from a stall. Air-drying spices is an old tradition in Hungary.

Fruit and vegetable stand. The ground floor of the market offers a variety of fresh seasonal produce.

Cracklings (teperto) in a bin. The snack is made from deep-fried pork fat.

Cream cakes including dobos torta, esterházy torta, and puncs torta. There are many varieties of cakes and pastries in Hungary.

Lecsó with smoked sausage. The upper floor of the market has several fast-food and snack stands.

Lángos and other pastries in a hot tray. Lángos is typical Hungarian snack that is deep-fried and is most commonly topped with garlic, shredded cheese, and sour cream.

Hungarian folk art such as embroideries, dolls, and decorated eggs are still produced in many rural areas in the country and are sold in the market.

Traditional Hungarian embroidery. Hungary is regarded for its unique and colorful needlework.

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Statute of a Turul on the railing of Buda Castle. This particular Turul was cast by Gyula Donath in 1905.

Beautiful, graceful and soaring through the skies, birds are often portrayed as symbols of power and freedom. In many myths and legends, birds connect the human world to the divine or supernatural realms that are beyond ordinary experience.

In Hungary, there are two main legends that surround a mythical bird called the “Turul“, which is attributed to shaping the fate of the Hungarians. The bird is usually described as a giant eagle or a falcon with a sword in its talons.

The first legend of the Turul tells the story of Princess Emese, consort of a Scythian king, who once had a dream in which a Turul appeared to her. In this dream, a crystal-clear stream started to flow from her, and as it moved Westward, it grew into a mighty river. This dream represented her symbolic impregnation by the Turul, and meant that she would give birth to a line of great rulers. Emese later gave birth to Álmos, who was the father of Árpád, the great leader of the Magyars and founder of Hungary.

In the second legend, the leader of the Hungarian tribes had a dream in which eagles attacked their horses and a Turul came and saved them. This symbolized that they had to migrate, and when they did so, the Turul helped them to show the way and eventually led them to the land that became Hungary.

Because of these legends, the Turul became a symbol of Magyar identity that has been represented throughout history and is still used today including on the coat of arms of the Hungarian Army and the Office of National Security.

Several statues of the Turul are also displayed throughout Hungary. Of the most prominent is the bronze statue situated on the railing of Buda Castle which was sculpted by Gyula Donath in 1905.

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View of Zagreb, capital of Croatia. The city is divided by two main sections, Gornji Grad (Upper Town) and Donji Grad (Lower Town).

Most visitors often pass this city in favor of Croatia’s sunny coastlines but Zagreb is well worth a visit too.

Since becoming the official capital of Croatia in 1991, this city is quickly evolving  into its own with an appealing blend of old and new elements.

The city is divided by two main sections, Gornji Grad (Upper Town) and Donji Grad (Lower Town). Gornji Grad is on a high plateau above Donji Grad and home to St. Mark’s Church and The Croatian Parliament. Donji Grad is a more modern area known for its museums and restaurants. Trg Bana Jelacica is the main square where the Upper and Lower Towns meet.

Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary

The Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary is one of the most important churches in Zagreb, mainly for its architectural history spanning over several centuries. It was originally built in the 11th century but was  later destroyed by the Tartar invasion and then rebuilt again in the 13th century. Most recently, the earthquake of 1880 destroyed large sections of the cathedral including the dome and the bell tower. The reconstruction that proceeded after the quake is now the original medieval design.

Ilica Street

Ilica is the most famous street in Zagreb and is favorite place for shopping. Dating back to the 15th century, this street is also one of the longest streets in the city, passing through the main square and dividing the center of Zagreb into the Upper and the Lower towns.

St. Mark’s Church

One of the most iconic churches in Croatia for its colorful roof titles depicting the historical coats of arms of Croatia and Zagreb, St. Mark’s Church used to act as the parish church for Gradec. It dates from the 13th century but has undergone many alternations throughout the years. The Gothic doorway is a stunning example of its early history which includes a rising archway decorated with the statues of Jesus, Mary, and St Mark flanked by the 12 Apostles. The interior contains a collection of pieces by Ivan Meštrovic and frescoes depicting Croatian royalty.

Ethnographic Museum

Anyone keen to learn more about Croatia’s rich folk culture, should visit this museum. It contains a comprehensive collection of traditional costumes, handicrafts and re-created lifestyles from Croatia, plus interesting ethnic items from various parts of the New World. 

Dolac Market

This colorful and lively market is located in the Kaptol district. Vegetables, fruits, cheeses, meats as well as local Croatian specialties are just a few of the items sold here.

The Zagreb funicular links the Upper and Lower towns. It is only a 64-second ride making it the shortest public-transport funicular in the world.

Meštrovic Atelier

The Meštrovic Atelier occupies the house where Croatia’s foremost twentieth-century sculptor, Ivan Meštrovic, lived between 1924 and 1942. It is now a charming memorial museum that contains sculptures and sketches from the first four decades of his art career.

Tkalciceva Street

Tkalciceva street, commonly  referred to as Tkalca was once home to craftsmen and merchants for centuries. Today it is a picturesque promenade filled with restaurants, coffee shops, boutiques and galleries.

Archaeological Museum

The archaeological museum possesses over 400,000 objects. The most famous are the Egyptian collection, the Zagreb mummy and bandages with the oldest Etruscan inscription in the world (Liber Linteus Zagrabiensis), as well as the numismatic collection. A part of the museum is set aside for the collection of stone monuments dating back predominantly to the Roman period.

Lotrscak Tower

The Lotrscak Tower was constructed in the middle of the 13th century in order to protect the southern city gate. For the last hundred years a cannon has been fired every day at noon commemorating an event from Zagreb’s history. Visitors can climb up its stairs for a sweeping 360-degree view of the city.

Mirogoj

A cemetery may not be something that most tourists would want to see but Mirogoj is an exceptional place that includes a fascinating mix of architecture and beauty. It was designed in 1876 by Croatian architect Herman Bollé, who also created numerous buildings around Zagreb. Many of Croatia’s heroes and common folk are buried here along with people of different faiths and nationalities reflecting the concept of peace and harmony as a final resting place. The newest addition is a Memorial Cross in honor of the fallen soldiers in Croatia’s Homeland War.

Stone Gate

Built in the 13th century, Stone Gate is the remaining of the five gates which once stood in Gradec. According to legend, in 1731 a fire destroyed much of this area, burning all the houses to the ground. The gate displayed a painting of Mary and Jesus which was “miraculously” undamaged by the fire. To protect the painting a chapel was built and the painting remains behind a metal grille. The painting is visited regularly by people who come to pray and leave gifts.

Botanical Gardens

This protected monument of garden architecture was founded in 1889 for the purpose of university lectures and is a home of autochthonic plant varieties from different parts of Croatia as well as a number of plant varieties from around the world. Its picturesque and winding pebble paths make this little Zagreb oasis a quiet refuge and place for a relaxing romantic walk.

Zagreb Funicular

The Zagreb funicular links the Upper and Lower towns. It is only a 64-second ride making it the shortest public-transport funicular in the world. Put to action in 1890, the funicular initially had steam engines and sometimes needed a little push from the passengers themselves, while today the electrical ones are used, it is still a popular means of transportation for most locals.

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Traditional horse-herdsman "Csikos" on the Puszta plain.

Hungary is more than just a place for those seeking to discover great history and high art. Equally impressive is Hungary’s undulating landscape and terrain that is comprised of beautiful lakes, rolling hills, thick forests, and flat open plains, all of which set the scene for enjoying a variety of activities. In particular, those with special interests for cycling, horse riding, bird-watching, and spelunking will find a treasure-trove here.

Hiking

Hiking in Hungary can be a lot of fun and is a great way to see the country’s beautiful landscape. In particular, two national parks in the country are especially popular with hiking fans. These are the Bugac Puszta and Bukk Hills national parks, both of which are easily accessible from the capital Budapest. These national parks have well-marked hiking trails to suit hikers of different fitness levels and abilities.

Horse Riding

There are many great places to go riding for both beginners and experienced riders in Hungary, particularly the Southern Great Plains, where travelers can experience the very best of traditional Hungarian horse riding. The Hungarian Equestrian Tourism Association (MLTKSZ) rates all equine centers using a five-horseshoe system, similar to the star ratings awarded to hotels. As a rule, the wider the range of activities that are offered at an equestrian center, the more horseshoes it will have in its rating. Many riding centers also offer over-night accommodation.

Cycling

Hungary’s relatively flat terrain makes it an ideal place for cycling. There are 2,000 kilometers worth of trails not including the thousands more of country road. Two EuroVelo routes transverse Hungary, one following the eastern bank of the Danube, one hugging the eastern bank of the River Tisza. In Northern Transdanubia, some of Europe’s best cycling routes are around Lake Ferto. The Hungary Cycling association provides a published map detailing all major cycling routes in the country.

Caving

Most visitors are unaware of Hungary’s extensive network of caves and caverns which can be found throughout the country. Of the most spectacular is the Aggtelek Caves located in the Aggtelek National Park in northeastern Hungary, bordering Slovakia. A UNESCO World Heritage site, the park comprises of unique flora and fauna and several hundred limestone caves and underground passages. Other interesting caves include those under the Buda Hills and in Lillafüred in the Northern Uplands.

Swimming

Swimming is very popular in Hungary and most towns and cities have at least one indoor and one outdoor pool. During the summer months, many locals retreat to Lake Balaton, often affectionately called the “Hungarian Sea”, which is regarded for its shallow warm waters and natural beauty. A host of other watersports can also be enjoyed in the area including windsurfing and sailing.

Bird Watching

Hungary has great diversity in habitat and is home to a wide variety of birds. Important species here include the great bustard, imperial eagle and the aquatic warbler. The large fish ponds and marshes of Hortobágy are considered among the best areas for bird watching in Hungary. During the spring and autumn, millions of migratory birds pass through the area.

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A Hungarian favorite, bejgli is a sweet roll that is filled with either poppy seed (mákos) or walnut (diós) filling. There are many variations and even savory alternatives, but these two are the most common. Bejgli is usually served for Christmas and Easter.

Ingredients

Dough

1 cup (250 ml) of warm water
2 packages (16 grams) of active dry yeast
1/2 cup (115 grams) unsalted butter, melted
1/2 sugar (115 grams)
3 large eggs, at room temperature
1 teaspoon salt
4 1/4 cups (470 grams) all-purpose unbleached flour, plus extra for kneading

Poppy Seed Filling

1/2 cup (120 ml) milk
1/4 cup (50 grams) superfine sugar
1 1/4 cups (250 grams) poppy seeds, ground
6 tbsp (60 grams) raisins
1 tsp grated lemon zest
5 tbsp honey

Walnut Filling

1/2 cup (120 ml) milk
1/4 cup (50 grams) superfine sugar
1- 1/2 cup (350 grams) walnuts, coarsely ground
6 tbsp (60 grams) raisins
1 tsp grated lemon zest
5 tbsp honey

Other

1 egg for glazing with 1 tbsp of water

Directions

Using a large bowl, dissolve the yeast in warm water and let stand until foamy for about 5 minutes.

Stir in the melted butter, sugar, eggs and salt. Mix until incorporated.

Add the flour, 1 cup at a time while mixing with a wooden spoon. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface. Knead the dough until it is smooth and elastic for about 5 -7 minutes. The dough should be soft but not sticky. If the dough is too sticky, add more flour.

Form the dough into a ball and transfer to a large bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and let it rise in a warm, draft-free spot until it doubles in bulk for about 1 1/2 – 2 hours.

Meanwhile, to make the poppy seed or walnut filling; add the milk with the sugar. Bring to a boil and add the filling of your choice along with the raisins. Simmer for a few minutes, stirring constantly, then remove from the heat and stir in the lemon zest and honey. Allow filling to cool before using.

Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C) and line a standard baking sheet with parchment paper.

Using a sharp knife or pastry cutter, divide the dough into two equal parts. Roll out each piece into a rectangle measuring about 14 x 12 inches. Spread the dough with the nut or poppy seed filling leaving a margin of at least an inch on all edges. Roll up lengthwise, ensuring the rolls remain tight and firm.

Cover rolls with a cloth and let it rise again, 45 – 60 minutes.

Carefully transfer the rolls onto the baking sheet. Brush rolls with egg mixture. Bake for 30 minutes or until golden brown and firm to the touch. Allow rolls to cool.

Additional

- Ensure to spread filling evenly on dough while leaving a margin of at least an inch on all edges.

- To obtain a golden brown color, brush rolls with 1 egg mixed with 1 tbsp of water before baking in the oven.

- Slice just before serving and arrange slices like roof tiles on a plate.

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