Designed by leading architect Samu Pecz in 1896, the Central Market Hall (Nagycsarnok) is Budapest’s largest and most popular indoor market situated on the Pest side of Liberty Bridge. During World War II the building suffered extensive damage and was only recently restored in the 1990’s along with the completion of its Zsolnay tiled roof.

Today, the three-storey structure contains more than 180 stalls that offer a wide range of foods and local specialties. The stalls on the ground floor sell fruits and vegetables, meats, and breads. Downstairs there is a supermarket, as well as vendors of fresh fish and pickled vegetables. Upstairs is filled with folk-art vendors, souvenir shops, and fast-food kiosks.

View of the Great Market Hall from above. The structure of the market is supported by steel columns and is adorned with large glass windows that allow natural light to illuminate the entire market.

Butcher and a patron. The market features a wide range of meat products including the famous Pick Salami.

Smoked ham, salami, bacon, and other meats. The most commonly consumed meat in Hungary is pork.

Locals sitting on a bench in the market. Despite its popularity with tourists, the market still remains a place for locals to hang out as well.

Peppers and garlic hanging from a stall. Air-drying spices is an old tradition in Hungary.

Fruit and vegetable stand. The ground floor of the market offers a variety of fresh seasonal produce.

Cracklings (teperto) in a bin. The snack is made from deep-fried pork fat.

Cream cakes including dobos torta, esterházy torta, and puncs torta. There are many varieties of cakes and pastries in Hungary.

Lecsó with smoked sausage. The upper floor of the market has several fast-food and snack stands.

Lángos and other pastries in a hot tray. Lángos is typical Hungarian snack that is deep-fried and is most commonly topped with garlic, shredded cheese, and sour cream.

Hungarian folk art such as embroideries, dolls, and decorated eggs are still produced in many rural areas in the country and are sold in the market.

Traditional Hungarian embroidery. Hungary is regarded for its unique and colorful needlework.

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Men playing chess in the Szechenyi swimming pool in Budapest. The bath can be found in the City Park, and was built in 1913 in Neo-baroque style to the design of Gyozo Czigler.

The thermal baths of Budapest have a long and proud history. The first thermal springs were discovered some 2,000 years ago in the Roman town of Aquincum (meaning “abundant water”) in north Budapest. Excavated remains of bathhouses, frescoes and mosaics demonstrated how they worshipped these waters. They were later favored by the Turks who popularized bathing culture in Hungary during the 16th and 17th centuries. Then, during Budapest’s golden era at the end of the 19th century, spas became an essential part of life. Some of these steam-belching Turkish baths, among the grandest in Europe, are still in use in Budapest today. Aside from being a relaxing and pleasant experience, many Hungarians treat a visit to the baths as part of personal healthcare or treatment for a variety of specific ailments.

Széchenyi Baths

Széchenyi is the biggest thermal bath complex in Budapest. Located in the City Park, it was built in 1913 in Neo-baroque style to the design of Gyozo Czigler. Due to its size and the variety of services, Széchenyi is perhaps the most popular of all thermal baths in the city for both locals and tourists. The complex includes indoor and outdoor pools, thermal and wellness sections, medical services, spa treatments, and fitness programs. In urban culture the image of Széchenyi baths is embodied by happy old men, sitting in front of each other in hot water and playing chess.

Gellért Baths

Situated in the famous Hotel Gellért, this impressive Art Nouveau facility was built between 1912 and 1918. Records of miraculous springs on the area of the bath date as early as the 15th century, and legend has it that Saint Elisabeth of Hungary also healed the poor here. The complex was later expanded in 1927 with an artificial wave-pool and a bubble bath, and in 1934 the first sliding roof in the continent was installed. It was damaged during World War II, but then rebuilt. Intricate sculptures, Zsolnay ceramic mosaic tiles and tinted glass adorn not only the interior, but also the open-air facilities and pools.

Rudas Baths

Near the Erzsébet Bridge, on the Buda side of the city, is the Rudas Baths, one of the oldest thermal bath facilities in the city. Its central part includes an octagonal pool covered by an enormous cupola standing on eight marble columns. At the end of the 19th century, a therapeutic swimming facility and a sauna was added. The bath also has a daytime outpatient hospital with a complex physiotherapeutic section, as well as a drinking hall, offering drinking cures from three water springs: Hungária, Attila and Juventus. The spa pools are mixed on weekends, but Tuesdays are reserved for women and the rest of the week for men.

Király Baths

The Kiraly Baths are one of Budapest’s most important architectural monuments to Turkish rule. The bath itself was built in the late 16th century, and is housed under an octagonal domed roof. Sunlight filters through small round windows in the ceiling which gives the water a special glow. In addition to the thermal bath, there is a sauna and steam room facilities. Bathing suits are only required on Sundays.

Lukács Baths

A favorite among locals, the Lukacs Baths were unveiled in 1894, but thermal baths have been used at the location since at least the 12th century and one remaining interior wall is actually the wall of a former Otttoman powder mill which used the hot spring water as a source of power. A drinking cure hall was added in 1937, and a daytime hospital was established in 1979. In 1999, the open-air pools of the swimming pool section were modernized. A marble tablet in the courtyard is etched with praises of people from around the world who feel they were cured by the waters at Lukács.

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George Szirtes was born in Budapest in 1948, and came to England as a refugee after the 1956 Hungarian uprising. Trained in Fine Art, his poems began appearing in national magazines in 1973 and his first book, The Slant Door, won the Geoffrey Faber Memorial prize in 1980.

In recent years he has worked as a translator of Hungarian literature, producing editions of such writers as Ottó Orbán, Zsuzsa Rakovszky and Ágnes Nemes Nagy. He co-edited Hungarian anthology The Colonnade of Teeth. His poetry books are The Budapest File (2000); An English Apocalypse (2001); Reel (2004), winner of the T.S. Eliot Prize; New & Collected Poems (2008) and The Burning of the Books and other poems (2009). He currently teaches creative writing at the University of East Anglia in Norwich.

You have a wide range of written work; poetry, translations, articles, essays and librettos. But what is it that ultimately attracts you to write?

I started writing at the age of 17 or possibly just 18, towards in the sixth form at school. I had dropped English Literature for which – much to my surprise I had received an A at O level and was concentrating on sciences with the idea of going to medical school. The idea was my parents’ rather than my own – a very old idea that stretched back as far as I remember – but I had no clear alternative idea myself. The problem was I wasn’t very good at science. The first impulse to poetry was procrastination – sitting in the library supposedly concentrating on Physics but picking thin books off the shelf with relatively few words in them. I hadn’t really thought about poetry before. We were a middle-brow family with possibly only Petöfi and Madách (if that) in the house and relatively few books of any kind. The words sometimes carried an air I liked. They matched, I suppose, a tendency in me to desultory meditation. I had no particular idea of writing poems myself.

Reel, Published 2004

One day I was in the school corridor with a friend who, to my great surprise, pulled out a sheet of paper with a hand-written poem on it by a mutual acquaintance. He offered it to me to read. I read it and inwardly thought it was bad. I may have shrugged. But immediately a set of thoughts passed through me. First, the thought that the poem was bad because it wasn’t true in some way, but that, in that case, it must be possible to write poems that were true in some undefined way, and that this was precisely the way I myself could arrive at some notion of truth. Nothing of my life at that stage seemed vital and true. This idea did. The second thought was that the falsity of the poem (as I understood it) was a matter of tone and language. The rhetoric was hollow. I wouldn’t have put it that way then, I doubt I knew what ‘rhetoric’ really meant, but I think that was the way it must have worked (I remember exactly where in the corridor we were standing even now).  The third thought, which struck me with a kind of sharpness was that I suddenly knew what I want to do and what I wanted to be. I wanted to write poems: I should be a poet.

I had no clear idea what that meant. My reading was small and chaotic. The next year I stayed on an extra year to retake Physics and was sent to there art room to fill up my time and keep me from hanging out. I had dropped art at the age of 13, being thought too messy. Now I found I could easily get a likeness and enjoyed painting.  When I left school I had a place at university to do Psychology but, to my parents disappointment and perhaps despair, I chose to go to art college.

Forgive the long preamble to the answer, but in many ways it is the answer. I wanted to write because I thought poetry was a way of registering truth, a truth that was deeper and more complex than could be found in the conversations of daily life or in fact in anything else I knew. I still think so. Translation and libretti came along later, the translations particularly important since they were associated with my first return as an adult to Hungary, which not only launched me into translation but changed the course of my writing too. It added a vital dimension. The libretti came out of teaching where musician-teachers asked me to write things. I wrote a good deal, something every year, some of it good but not all. Articles and essays are a natural product of thinking about writing and reading

I understand that when you went back to Budapest in 1984 and that it had a significant impact on your work. Can you tell what that was like for you?

I had been forming the desire to pay a return visit to Hungary for some years. The desire had grown stronger since the death of my mother in 1975, hardly there at first but slowly approaching the way you might hear a train approach. The title poem of my third book, Short Wave, where I am listening to short wave radio and turning the dial, was one expression of that desire-in-formation. So I started reading about Hungary and for the first time in my life applied to the Arts Council, who awarded me a traveling grant. ON arrival I was met by a delegation from PEN, among who are people I still consider close friends.

The Burning of the Books and Other Poems, Published 2009

Being in Budapest was like a three-week hallucination. I recognized sounds, smells, spaces and something about the texture of the place. The buildings of Pest were still riddled with bullet holes and shell marks. It was possible to walk into a courtyard and simply look and listen. I hadn’t spoken Hungarian for twenty eight years but I still understood tone. The structures appropriate to a bright seven year old child were undisturbed, it was the vocabulary that had diminished. My understanding was about 50%, my speaking about 10%. Both have improved significantly since then, of course. On the last day I was asked to read at the house of the British Council Representative. Many writers and editors came and, for the first time, I was asked to translate – four poems by Kosztolányi. Everything followed from there.

The following year I returned as a British Council scholar for ten weeks, and again two year later. In 1989 we spent almost nine months in Budapest. When I changed publishers in 1999, the first act of my new publisher, Bloodaxe, was to collect together my poetry on Hungarian themes in a book titled The Budapest File (2000) – about 200pp including an introductory essay. That changed the nature of my presence in English poetry. Next year there was a collection of my poetry specifically about England, An English Apocalypse (2001).  So the Hungarian re-connection not only changed me and my writing, but also the British perspective of me as a literary figure.

Since then the two halves have slowly grown together again and the books since have contained material relating to both themes and much else. The last book, The Burning of the Books (2009) included a commissioned poem, Seeking North: A Hungarian Nova Zembla in commemoration of 1956. It was broadcast by the BBC in 2006 on the fiftieth anniversary of the Uprising.

Have you ever considered returning to Hungary to live?

Yes, but not on a permanent basis. Sometimes I have thought of dying there because there is so much I love about Budapest and the places closest to my heart are there. We thought of buying a flat for a while but there was no opportunity at the time. We are there for a few days each year, sometimes more than once. I wouldn’t want to live in Hungary in the present political climate though.

Would you agree with Robert Frost that: “Poetry is what is lost in translation?”

Yes, but in the best cases it is also found there. There are few British poetic forms that are not imports at some level. They were imported via translation.

What are you working on at the moment and what plans do you have for the future?

No related posts.

Handmade dolls for sale in Hollóko, located in northeastern Hungary.

The best souvenirs are those that are specific to the place you visited and, ideally, made by local people. You’ll not only be buying something special but you’ll also be supporting the local economy. If you’re traveling to Hungary and are hoping to bring back a memorable gift, here is a list of ideas for souvenirs that embrace the culture and heritage of Hungary.

Paprika

The perfect souvenir for anyone that loves to cook, paprika is the national spice of Hungary and used extensively in Hungarian cuisine. There are several versions of paprika in Hungary ranging from édes (sweet) to eros (hot) as well as everything in between. You can buy paprika in almost any market or food shop and most are fairly inexpensive. Alternatively, there are many products containing paprika as an ingredient such as paprika pastes.

Wine

Hungary is famous for its excellent wines. There are 22 distinct wine regions across the country which produce the full spectrum of wine styles including reds, whites, roses, and sparkling wines. That being said, there’s no shortage of quality wines that are available at wine shops and liquor stores.

Pálinka

A ubiquitous specialty known throughout Hungary, pálinka is the generic name for a fiery fruit brandy. There are many flavors to choose from including plum, apricot, and apple, so even if you find the drink overwhelming, you can still have fun trying to find a flavor that suits your palate. Pálinka also comes in various sizes and shapes, making it an ideal gift.

Embroidery

Of the most cherished aspects of Hungarian culture, is its rich heritage in needlework. Bold colors, floral patterns, and rich textures all characterize embroidery from Hungary. You can find all kinds of handmade  items including tablecloths, linens, serving towels, and even garments at markets and festivals across the country.

Porcelain

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In 1913, the 7th Congress of the International Women’s Suffrage Alliance (IWSA) met in Budapest. The aim of the convention was to raise public awareness of women’s issues in Hungary. In particular, the alliance wanted to work with city council to establish a women’s aid office as well as day care centers.

Here’s a look a some of the photos that were taken during the convention. All photos are the courtesy of the New York Public Library archives.

In front of Congress headquarters.

Crowd scene in front of a building.

Holding up copies of "A Nok" the Hungarian feminist newspaper.

Dr. István Bározy, mayor of Budapest with his secretary, Mr. Barchy.

Mrs. Frigga Carlberg of Göteborg, a town councellor (2nd row, middle, marked 'x'), with other members.

Congress members and a street vendor.

Parliament terrace luncheon.

Congress members in conversation in Mezokövesd. Behind them are women in traditional costumes.

International Doll Exhibit for Congress funds.

Group of women and their babies on the street.

Nurses bathing babies.

Party goers entering Fisherman's Bastion.

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Steve Jobs statue at Graphisoft Park in Budapest. Photo courtesy of Szabolcs Dudás

A larger-than size bronze statue of the late Apple co-founder Steve Jobs was unveiled today at the Graphisoft Park in Budapest.

The statue was commissioned by Graphisoft Founder and Chairman of the Board Gabor Bojar.

The relationship between Graphisoft and Apple can be traced to the 1980’s, when Jobs came across the first version of Graphisoft’s ArchiCAD software at the 1984 CeBIT in Germany. His first impressions of the software led him to throw Apple’s support behind the development and distribution of ArchiCAD.

“Apple’s support included cash and computers at a time when Graphisoft was a small company with limited resources, working within the economic and political confines of what was, at the time, communist Hungary,” Mr. Bojar said in a statement.

Crafted by Hungarian sculptor Erno Toth, the statue is the first in the world honoring Jobs in such a fashion.

Jobs died on October 5 of pancreatic cancer at the age of 56.

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‘Tis the season once again in Budapest, where the city is transformed into twinkling, aromatic open-air markets. Filled with traditional arts and crafts, mulled wine, and tasty eats, these holiday bazaars offer a great way to experience some of the local culture while shopping for special gifts. The largest and most colorful market is located at Vörösmarty Square which includes over 100 wooden pavilions as well as a live music and stage performances. The other four main markets are located at Saint Stephen’s Basilica, Liszt Ferenc Square, Gozsdu udvar and the Museum of Applied Arts.

Visitors walk through the Christmas market in Vörösmarty Square.

A vendor serves a cup of mulled wine to a customer.

Christmas tree decorations hanging on display at a stall.

Fresh sausages for sale at a meat stall.

A vendor cooks meat on a grill.

A vendor serves a bag of roasted chestnuts to a customer.

Kürtöskalács (also known as chimney cakes) on hot coals.

Stuffed cabbage and other street food for sale.

Visitors having a drink at a stall.

Budapest Christmas market souvenir mugs.

Nativity scene in the market.

Visitors skate at an ice rink next to St. Stephen's Basilica at night.

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Budapest has eight bridges that extend across the Danube. Each of these bridges have played an important role in the development and infrastructure of the city. Some have even become icons because of their influence and engineering wonder while others are known for their remarkable beauty.

Széchenyi Chain Bridge

Year opened: 1849
Length: 202 meters
Type: Suspension bridge

One of the city's most famous landmarks, the Széchenyi Chain Bridge was the first bridge to span the Danube connecting the two halves of the city Buda and Pest. It is named in honor of its initiator, István Széchenyi, but was actually built by Scotsman Adam Clark. In 1945, Germans troops destroyed the bridge as well as all the others that were in existence at that time. The bridge was rebuilt in November 1949.

Margaret Bridge

Year opened: 1876
Length: 637.5 meters
Type: Suspension bridge

Margaret Bridge was built according to the design of Emile Gouin who worked together with Alexandre Gustave Eiffel, the creator of the Eiffel Tower and the Statue of Liberty in New York. It became into the most used bridge in the city until it was blown up, parts of the Pest side in 1944 from an accidental explosion and then parts of the Buda side in 1945 by German troops. The great need for the bridge made the repairing go fast, and it was opened again in 1947.

Liberty Bridge

Year opened: 1896
Length: 333.6 meters
Type: Suspension bridge

Although radically different in structure, Liberty Bridge imitates the general outline of a chain-type bridge, which was considered an aesthetically preferable form at the time of its construction. The bridge was opened in the presence of Emperor Franz Joseph in which the last silver nail was inserted into the structure by the Emperor himself, and the bridge was originally named after him. Each post of the bridge is topped by a mythical turul bird.

Elizabeth Bridge

Year opened: 1964
Length: 637.5 meters
Type: Suspension bridge with portal frame

The Elizabeth Bridge received its name from Queen Elisabeth, a queen in Austria-Hungary, who was assassinated in 1898. The original bridge was completed in 1903 but was destroyed during World War II and could not be restored. The new version is a white suspension bridge which connects from the base of Gellert Hill and into Kossuth Lajos utca, perpendicular to Vaci utca.

Arpad Bridge

Year opened: 1950
Length: 981 meters
Type: Beam bridge

As the Hungarians came to “Hungary” in 896, they were led by the chieftain Árpad. He is also the name giver of the most northern bridge of Budapest, the Arpad Bridge. Though it carried the name of Stalin from its opening in 1950 to 1958, it regained its original name in 1958. It is said to be the most used bridge in Budapest. It also contains a little bridge, connecting it to the northern side of Margaret Island.

Petofi Bridge

Year opened: 1937
Length: 514 meters
Type: Truss bridge

Rather nondescript in design yet functional, Petofi Bridge connects Boraros ter with Goldmann Gyorgy ter. It is named after Petofi Sandor, Hungary's most beloved poet and a hero of the Hungarian War of Independence, during which he was killed in 1849.

Lagymanyosi Bridge

Year opened: 1995
Length: 494 meters
Type: Steel girder bridge

Named after the south Buda district of Lágymányos, this bridge is the southernmost and second newest bridge in Budapest. The new Hungarian National Theatre and the Palace of Arts is located directly across from the pest side of the bridge.

Megyeri Bridge

Year opened: 2008
Length: 1,862 meters
Type: Cable-stayed bridge

Megyeri Bridge, previously known as the Northern M0 Danube bridge, is the newest and longest bridge in Budapest. It connects Újpest with Budakalász through the Szentendre Island. A naming poll to determine the new name of the bridge caused controversy and received widespread media attention.

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Bottles of palinka for sale at a wine shop in Budapest. Palinka is one of Hungary's most prized drinks.

Hungary has a vast array of alcoholic beverages including quality wines and beers, as well as liqueurs and brandies that are made exclusively in the country.

Here are a few suggestions of various drinks to try.

 Egészségedre! (Cheers!)

Pálinka

Produced in both Hungary and Transylvania, this traditional brandy is made from various kinds of fruit such as plums, pears, apricots, mulberries or quinces.  It is consumed at all hours of the day, but is particularly popular as an after work or after dinner drink. A must try!

Wine

Hungary is famous for its excellent wines. There are 22 distinct wine regions across the country which produce the full spectrum of wine styles including reds, whites, roses, and sparkling wines. Tokaji Aszu, which comes from the Tokaj region, is Hungary most famous wine and is even mentioned in the Hungarian national anthem. Other wines include full-bodied, robust reds from Villány-Siklós and Szekszárd, while Somló and Badacsony is regarded for its mineral rich whites.

Beer

Although Hungary is better known as a wine-producing country, beer has been made here for over a thousand years and the country has a significant history of commercial beer production. Top domestic brands include Arany Ászok, Kobányai (the first commercial brewery in Hungary that was established in Buda in 1845), Borsodi, Soproni and Dreher. A number of small microbreweries have also emerged in recent years.

Spritzer

Spritzer also known as fröccs in Hungarian, is a popular drink in Hungary that is mixed from wine and soda water in varying proportions. The most common is the basic classic, known as the “nagy“, or large, fröccs. This is a mix of two parts wine to one part soda water, a third of a litre in size. Fröccs is especially ideal for the summer.

Unicum

This traditional bitter liqueur has been produced by the Zwach family for over 150 years. It is a blend of 40 different herbs, based on an old secret recipe. Unicum is sold in a characteristic bomb-shaped bottle which features a golden cross on the front. Usually drunk as an apéritif, Unicum is an acquired taste.

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Visitors arriving at the entrance of the Budapest International Wine Festival. This year marks the 20th anniversary of the festival which was founded by the Hungarian Viniculture Foundation in 1991.

After spending an enjoyable day at the Budapest International Wine Festival last week, I thought I would share some of my favorite moments.

Arriving in style

If you know Budapest, you know how painfully slow your journey can be through the city. I tend to walk, sometimes it’s the quickest way, but this time I decided to arrive in style by taking the funicular which links at river level from the Chain Bridge to the Buda Castle above. I bet the Ottomans would have loved to have such a transport into the castle as well!

It’s like a big family

If you work long enough in the wine business you will evidently catch up with people who you know, it’s like family, a big family and it gets bigger. My mentor and friend Robert Cey-Bert introduced me to some friends from Serbia and we had a great discussion about the wine regions of “Szerémség” (today Croatia and Serbia). Emperor Probus home town is in the area; it was thanks to him that vine growing got re-established in Pannonia. It is also the home of the Tarcal mountain (also known as Fruska Gora today) and what better way to be acquainted with this region than to try a glass of Tokaji (as Tarcal is also a town within the wine region of Tokaj). One of the wines we happen to sample was a Muscat Lunel 6 puttonyos aszú 2006 from Crown Estate. Both the base wine and the aszú berries come from 100% Muscat Lunel. It’s rather unsual to have base wine and aszú grapes made from this variety, as it’s the least planted.

Olaszrizling step-child or more

You either like it or hate the idea of Olaszrizling as a leading grape variety. Some people look at it as rather inferior, especially as it does not have the same quality as Riesling (no relationship what so ever), on the other side it’s the most planted grape variety in Hungary and it does occasionally shine and makes more than just a coughing wine. While Szekszárd is clearly a red wine region, the Olaszrizling from Bösz Adrián showed the typical characters of the Olaszrizling. Dry, slightly tangy, salty-mineral note with a citrus fruit touch of floralness in the background and in this case a bit of the less protective (oxidative) character. The Kálikövek a new winery from the northern side of Balaton had a blend of Rajnai (Riesling) and Olaszrizling (Welschriesling). The Rezeda from the 2010 vintage was delicious with ripe fruit, notes of maracuja and pineapple followed by some floral notes and a hint of cashew nuts in the background, supported by great acidity.

Meeting the wine personalities

Winemakers have opinions and that’s good. They should interpret their passion from the land on which they live and Mother Nature via their wines. Attila Németh from the NAG winery of the Mátra regions does this. He is not afraid to let the wine be as nature wants it. By this I mean, if the wine has some residual sugar, so let it be. It’s about the balance, not just individual bits and pieces of the wine. József Horváth from the Ráspi Winery at the Sopron wine region shares similar thoughts. He not only runs one of the best restaurants in the country at the Fertö Lake (near the Austrian border) but delivers quality and passion through his wines. The main focus for him is “terroir”; he really wants to know what’s possible in each unit and elevates Kékfrankos and Zweigelt into a different league.

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