Exhausted and burned out from chasing the ever-elusive American dream, Jennifer Wilson and her husband Jim were desperately seeking a simpler, more connected life. Having lost half of their savings in the U.S. stock market crash in 2008, the timing seemed right to make some changes.

In the summer of 2009, Jennifer, Jim and their two children, Sam and Zadie, arrived in the Croatian mountain village of Mrkopalj to start over in the area where Jennifer’s great-grandparents had immigrated from 100 years ago. For several months they lived like locals, from milking the neighbor’s cows to eating roasted pig on a spit to seeking the village recipe for bootleg liquor. As the Wilson-Hoff family struggled to stay sane (and warm), what they found was much deeper and bigger than themselves.

We spoke with Jennifer about her newly-released book “Running Away to Home: One Family’s Journey to Croatia in Search of Who We Are, Where We Came From, and What Really Matters“, which explores her sabbatical abroad and how it changed her family.

What motivated you to return to the country of your great-grandparents?

Three major events in our lives converged that propelled us to Mrkopalj. The last of my immigrant relatives. Sister Mary Paula Radosevic, passed away and I inherited her personal papers. In them, I read about this little mountain village tucked away in the northwest corner of Croatia. At that same time, the economy was unraveling, and then-candidate Barack Obama was telling us all we’d have to return to our Nation of Immigrants values to get back on track again. It struck me that my generation doesn’t even know what that means anymore. Lastly, my husband Jim and I were feeling disconnected from each other, and from our two little kids, Sam and Zadie. Mrkopalj, Croatia, this faraway place that seemed like it had been suspended in amber for the past 100 years, with its little gnome houses and wide meadows and forested mountains, became my obsession.

How did your family initially feel about the decision to move there?

Jim was feeling restless at work–he was at one of those places where you have to call the boss to prove you need a sick day, and he was barely ever home to see us–so he was pretty easy to talk into this project, though he’s the sensible one of the two of us. My son Sam didn’t particularly want to leave, but he knew he wasn’t old enough to stay home alone or anything. My daughter Zadie was just happy that we’d all be together and she wouldn’t have to be in daycare for a year. And she was by far the heartiest traveler for the entire journey.

Jennifer, Jim and their two children, Sam and Zadie in Mrkopalj. Photo courtesy of Jennifer Wilson.

What were some of the challenges of living in a rural place like Mrkopalj?

We lived in Mrkopalj through the summer and fall of 2009, leaving before the winter which could be really harsh. (We spent the winter in Istria, writing a draft of the book). At first, it was tough for the high-strung American mom to adjust to life in the really really really slow lane. Every time I’d pull out my datebook to make a time to interview someone about village history, they’d start laughing at the very idea of having a planner in Mrkopalj. “Just drop by, we’ll be here!” they’d laugh, and then go back to sitting on the stoop or weeding the garden. But there wasn’t really anything too difficult, just surprising. The kids were a little taken aback at eating sheep from a spit, and I was a little freaked out about the sheer amount of alcohol consumption–though my husband dug right into that part of the culture. It was like a party all day long! But the women were always working. Always, always.

Surprisingly there were few really tough parts about Mrkopalj. The people in the village stepped up with that amazing Croatian hospitality from almost the very beginning, teaching me old recipes, and always trying to help us with the language. They felt so bad that I’d lost so much family history that I didn’t even know who my great grandparents had been … they just couldn’t understand that this was a common thing in America.

What was it like to reconnect with your relatives?

You know what surprised me most? How much it meant to them that we’d come back to meet them and get to know them. I mean, we crossed an ocean to find out what our ancestors would have to teach us, and it was major. But they treated me like an honored guest, and wept to see we’d come back. I just couldn’t believe that. It meant so much to them. They just don’t want to be forgotten, and we don’t want to forget either.

Viktor's barn. Photo courtesy of Jennifer Wilson.

Do you think this experience has changed the way your family now sees the world?

I think we’ve expanded our definition of family. We aren’t just a small unit here in Iowa. We have a village of 800 people in Croatia that feels just as much like family to us. We stay in touch with them. We love them. We are connected. As Americans, we can’t forget that we came from so many other countries. We are a Nation of Immigrants. We can’t forget that.

Would you recommend that others do the same?

That’s the best part about a travelogue–I did it so you don’t have to! You’ll experience the beauty and difficulty of such a journey in my book, all from the comfort of your favorite reading chair.

Now, if it’s your dream, yes, do it. But I don’t think it’s necessary to take a multi-month journey. Taking a visit of any length of time to the place where your family came from I think would move you to your core. Contact the tourism folks and let them know you’re coming, or look up connections on ancestry sites and see if you can get someone to meet you or help you on your journey. Try to connect before you get there, so someone will be waiting for you who can help guide you or give you some pointers. And feel free to contact me, too, on my website www.jennifer-wilson.com! I’m always glad to lend whatever insights I can — but the best ones are in the book, of course!

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View of Zagreb, capital of Croatia. The city is divided by two main sections, Gornji Grad (Upper Town) and Donji Grad (Lower Town).

Most visitors often pass this city in favor of Croatia’s sunny coastlines but Zagreb is well worth a visit too.

Since becoming the official capital of Croatia in 1991, this city is quickly evolving  into its own with an appealing blend of old and new elements.

The city is divided by two main sections, Gornji Grad (Upper Town) and Donji Grad (Lower Town). Gornji Grad is on a high plateau above Donji Grad and home to St. Mark’s Church and The Croatian Parliament. Donji Grad is a more modern area known for its museums and restaurants. Trg Bana Jelacica is the main square where the Upper and Lower Towns meet.

Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary

The Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary is one of the most important churches in Zagreb, mainly for its architectural history spanning over several centuries. It was originally built in the 11th century but was  later destroyed by the Tartar invasion and then rebuilt again in the 13th century. Most recently, the earthquake of 1880 destroyed large sections of the cathedral including the dome and the bell tower. The reconstruction that proceeded after the quake is now the original medieval design.

Ilica Street

Ilica is the most famous street in Zagreb and is favorite place for shopping. Dating back to the 15th century, this street is also one of the longest streets in the city, passing through the main square and dividing the center of Zagreb into the Upper and the Lower towns.

St. Mark’s Church

One of the most iconic churches in Croatia for its colorful roof titles depicting the historical coats of arms of Croatia and Zagreb, St. Mark’s Church used to act as the parish church for Gradec. It dates from the 13th century but has undergone many alternations throughout the years. The Gothic doorway is a stunning example of its early history which includes a rising archway decorated with the statues of Jesus, Mary, and St Mark flanked by the 12 Apostles. The interior contains a collection of pieces by Ivan Meštrovic and frescoes depicting Croatian royalty.

Ethnographic Museum

Anyone keen to learn more about Croatia’s rich folk culture, should visit this museum. It contains a comprehensive collection of traditional costumes, handicrafts and re-created lifestyles from Croatia, plus interesting ethnic items from various parts of the New World. 

Dolac Market

This colorful and lively market is located in the Kaptol district. Vegetables, fruits, cheeses, meats as well as local Croatian specialties are just a few of the items sold here.

The Zagreb funicular links the Upper and Lower towns. It is only a 64-second ride making it the shortest public-transport funicular in the world.

Meštrovic Atelier

The Meštrovic Atelier occupies the house where Croatia’s foremost twentieth-century sculptor, Ivan Meštrovic, lived between 1924 and 1942. It is now a charming memorial museum that contains sculptures and sketches from the first four decades of his art career.

Tkalciceva Street

Tkalciceva street, commonly  referred to as Tkalca was once home to craftsmen and merchants for centuries. Today it is a picturesque promenade filled with restaurants, coffee shops, boutiques and galleries.

Archaeological Museum

The archaeological museum possesses over 400,000 objects. The most famous are the Egyptian collection, the Zagreb mummy and bandages with the oldest Etruscan inscription in the world (Liber Linteus Zagrabiensis), as well as the numismatic collection. A part of the museum is set aside for the collection of stone monuments dating back predominantly to the Roman period.

Lotrscak Tower

The Lotrscak Tower was constructed in the middle of the 13th century in order to protect the southern city gate. For the last hundred years a cannon has been fired every day at noon commemorating an event from Zagreb’s history. Visitors can climb up its stairs for a sweeping 360-degree view of the city.

Mirogoj

A cemetery may not be something that most tourists would want to see but Mirogoj is an exceptional place that includes a fascinating mix of architecture and beauty. It was designed in 1876 by Croatian architect Herman Bollé, who also created numerous buildings around Zagreb. Many of Croatia’s heroes and common folk are buried here along with people of different faiths and nationalities reflecting the concept of peace and harmony as a final resting place. The newest addition is a Memorial Cross in honor of the fallen soldiers in Croatia’s Homeland War.

Stone Gate

Built in the 13th century, Stone Gate is the remaining of the five gates which once stood in Gradec. According to legend, in 1731 a fire destroyed much of this area, burning all the houses to the ground. The gate displayed a painting of Mary and Jesus which was “miraculously” undamaged by the fire. To protect the painting a chapel was built and the painting remains behind a metal grille. The painting is visited regularly by people who come to pray and leave gifts.

Botanical Gardens

This protected monument of garden architecture was founded in 1889 for the purpose of university lectures and is a home of autochthonic plant varieties from different parts of Croatia as well as a number of plant varieties from around the world. Its picturesque and winding pebble paths make this little Zagreb oasis a quiet refuge and place for a relaxing romantic walk.

Zagreb Funicular

The Zagreb funicular links the Upper and Lower towns. It is only a 64-second ride making it the shortest public-transport funicular in the world. Put to action in 1890, the funicular initially had steam engines and sometimes needed a little push from the passengers themselves, while today the electrical ones are used, it is still a popular means of transportation for most locals.

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3. Dolac market

Dolac, is Zagreb’s biggest and most popular market. Established in 1930, the daily market has been a central focus for farmers and traders from surrounding villages to sell their goods. Today, the market consists of a raised open square lined with colorful stalls of fruit, vegetables, nuts, and eggs. At street level is an indoor market for meat, cheese, spices, breads, as well as prepared products. In a separate building, vendors sell a variety of fresh fish bought in from the Dalmatian coast. Leading up to the market is also a flower section dominated by local women selling their fresh cuttings.

Besides its primary function, Dolac remains the heart and soul of the city and a favorite place for locals and tourists alike.

Outdoor fruit and vegetable section of the Dolac Market in Zagreb. The market is located north of Ban Jelacic Square, the main square of the city.

A vendor selling potatoes to a customer. Locals come here daily to sell their own vegetables and other produce.

Dried figs and other vegetables for sale.

Radishes for sale.

A vendor at a cheese stall. A local favorite is sir i vrhinje, cottage cheese mixed with sour cream.

A vendor selling fresh eggs.

A butcher waiting for customers.

Prosciutto at a meat stand. This air-dried ham is a specialty of Dalmatia.

A vendor weighing fish on a scale.

Fresh shrimp for sale. Seafood is bought in from the Dalmatian coast.

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Honey cake is one of the most popular traditional desserts in Croatia. It consists of thin layers of biscuit made with honey and vanilla flavored cream filling. This version contains both vanilla and cocoa which gives it just the right amount of sweetness. It makes a great accompaniment with tea or coffee.

For the biscuit layers

Ingredients

3 cups + 2 tbsp (400 grams) all-purpose flour
1 tbsp baking soda
3 tbsp milk
2 tbsp honey
3 tbsp vegetable oil
2/3 cup (150 grams) fine sugar
1 egg, lightly beaten

Directions

Mix together flour and baking soda and set aside. In a saucepan heat milk, honey, oil and sugar on medium heat until sugar dissolves. Remove from heat, add flour mixture and egg. Mix with a wooden spoon until it combines together and then knead with your hands into a dough. Cover with a clean kitchen cloth and let it rest for 15 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C).

Divide the dough into four equal pieces. Take one piece of the dough and roll it out on a piece of parchment paper into a rectangle about 2 mm thick. Transfer the flattened dough together with parchment paper on a baking tray and bake for 5 minutes or until just golden but not brown. Make sure you don’t over-bake as it tends to burn easily since it is very thin. Remove from the oven and let it cool completely. Once cooled, the cake layers should become hard and stiff. Handle them with care as they are fragile and tend to break easily. Repeat the process with the rest of the dough.

For the cream filling

Ingredients

2 cups (500 ml) milk
2/3 cup (150 grams) fine sugar
1 tbsp vanilla sugar
6 tbsp semolina
2 sticks (200 grams) unsalted butter, at room temperature
2 tbsp cocoa powder
2 tsp dark rum

Directions

In a medium saucepan heat milk, sugar and vanilla sugar. Bring to a boil and remove from heat. Stir in semolina and cook until it thickens. Remove from heat and let it cool completely. Meanwhile, beat the butter until light and creamy and mix it into the filling. Mix cocoa powder and rum into 1/3 of the filling.

Assembly

Sprinkle one cake layer with some rum, spread half of the white filling over it and cover with another layer. Press gently with your hands so it sticks to the filling. Again sprinkle the cake with rum and now spread the dark filling over it. Cover with the third layer, press gently and sprinkle with rum. Spread the remaining white filling over it, cover with the last layer and sprinkle with some rum. Don’t worry if your layers aren’t perfectly shaped. Cover tight with a plastic wrap and leave in the fridge overnight (two days would be ideal). You will probably notice that the cake layers are quite hard when you’re assembling the cake, but don’t worry. They will soften up considerably overnight under plastic wrap and the cake will literally melt in your mouth. You can cut away the non-perfect parts the next day and shape or cut the cake as you like.

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As many as 768 people grouped together today to dress in black and yellow to create the biggest human smiley face in the world on Zagreb’s main square.

Their efforts were said to have broken the Guinness World Record, smashing the previous record, which involved 551 participants and was reached in Riga.

You can watch a video about the event from CBS News.

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Dubrovnik, Croatia

Since the collapse of the communist regime in the early 1990’s, much of Central and Eastern Europe has seen rapid growth in tourism. Each year, more and more people are travelling to the region.

From ancient castle to cathedrals, superb cafés and restaurants, UNESCO world heritage sites, beautiful landscapes, top-class shopping and nightlife – Central and Eastern has become one of the most popular travel destinations in the world.

JayWay Travel specializes in travel to Europe and Eastern European tours in Croatia, Czech Republic, Hungary, Poland, Serbia, Bosnia & Herzegovina, Montenegro, Austria and Slovakia.

Here is a featured interview with company founder Jay Ternavan.

Tell us about JayWay Travel?

JayWay Travel was established four years and is based out of Pelham, New York. We now offer travel to ten countries throughout Central & Eastern Europe. The company has achieved quick success and growth over the four years as initially we offered just travel to Croatia. We are primarily a web-based company with on-site presence through our staff and partners in all the locations we cover. JayWay is a unique travel company that caters to the modern traveler. It is our personalized service and flexibility that sets us apart from others in the industry. We actually try to shy away from the impersonal label of an “agency” and more think of ourselves as travel experts or a concierge type of service. We pride ourselves on the in-depth first hand knowledge we provide for all the destinations we offer as I have either lived or traveled extensively to all the locations we offer. Because of this we are able to insure the quality of all the services we offer. This valuable local knowledge benefits our clients and allows them to maximize their precious time in these countries.

What motivated you to develop a company specializing in Central and Eastern European travel?

Prague, Czech Republic

A big motivation came from my passion for traveling. I am happy to say I love what I do and enjoy passing on my experiences to our clients. Having lived in Croatia, Czech Republic, Poland and in my travels I have had the pleasure to enjoy several years in this exciting and vibrant part of Europe. The destinations themselves make it easy for me to promote this region. I saw a real opportunity in Central & Eastern Europe as it is still somewhat undiscovered by the average traveler and often harder to navigate than Western Europe. I believe that our expertise of this area is extremely valuable to potential travelers. .

Can you explain a bit about your services?

We offer tailor made personalized services. We can assist with all aspects of one’s trip including flights, accommodations, transport and tours to name a few. One on one consultation is a critical part of our services. Generally this is done over the phone but also via email. Initially we like to get as much information from our potential clients as possible to so we can design and cater a trip exactly to meet their needs. I believe what we offer is an excellent value for money and this is consistently the feedback we receive from clients. Our traveler phones allow clients to have a concierge service at the palm of their hands, they are able contact our destination managers throughout their stay for assistance. All of the accommodations we offer are hand picked and we provide all types of accommodations including apartments, B&B’s and design/boutique hotels. We encourage stays at places that provide a unique and authentic experience. We can design a personalized package from start to finish so our client’s don’t have to deal with the unnecessary stress of traveling and can enjoy a carefree vacation. We offer the flexibility you won’t find with traditional agencies as we can work around our client’s schedule rather than the tour schedule.

Who are your guests?

We have a wide range of guests, I believe we truly cater to all types of travelers. A majority of our clients are from the US but we have also had clients from all parts of the world. We deal primarily with individuals but have also organized trips for family groups and professional groups. The ages of our clients also vary as we have had student travelers all the way up seniors. We can certainly cater to all budgets but I would say more often than not our clients are not budget travelers. Again the overwhelming feedback is we are an excellent value for money and nowadays people are understandably price conscious so we always try to keep our offer competitive. For many of our clients it was there first time seeking assistance with their travel planning. They did so because they found us to be the ideal middle ground between using an agent and doing it on their own. I think people feel comfortable with us because they still feel in control with their decision making for the trip rather than completely handing it over to an agent offering some rigid structured tour.

Budapest, Hungary

What’s your most popular destination or itinerary?

Croatia continues to be our most popular destination with the Czech Republic, Hungary and Poland following in that order. I think the reason being is Croatia just become popular in the last three or four years whereas the other destinations have been in the know for the last ten years or so. More and more we have people combining the four above mentioned destinations along with places such as Austria for example. For this year we have added Slovenia which has already shown a lot of quick initial interest and it is often combined with a Croatia trip.

Where do you see your company in the future?

I am quite positive about the future as we continue to expand our locations, staff and operations year after year. I believe this expansion will continue but I also want to be sure we do not get too big too quickly. I think when you try to expand too quickly you loose part of the formula that made you successful. For us that is specializing and being experts in all the destinations we offer. Before adding more destinations I want to be sure that our offering is complete and without flaws. There is always room for improvement and I really appreciate the invaluable feedback we receive from clients. Fortunately for us the first four years have been quite smooth and the feedback from clients has been amazing. Hearing the praise and thanks from our clients is the most rewarding part of what I do.

Any additional comments you would like to share with us?

I think I covered it all above but one accolade we are quite proud of is that we were recently recommended in the Fodor’s travel guidebook. They are regarded as one of the most reputable travel resources worldwide so certainly a valuable reference.

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A view of of Hvar by the coastline. The island is located in the Adriatic Sea, off the Dalmatian coast.

Overview

Zlatan Plavac is a rare full-bodied wine from the Dalmatian island of Hvar in Croatia.

The wine is made from selected grapes of the variety Plavac Mali, a blend between Zinfandel and Dobricic grapes. 

Croatian wine has a long history dating back to 5th century B.C. Recent historical findings suggest that wine in Croatia existed hundreds of years before the rise of the Roman Empire.

Zlatan Plavac Grand Cru 2003.

Today, there are over 300 geographically defined wine regions in Croatia. The majority of Croatian wines is white, with the remainder being red, and a small percentage of rosé wines. In 2005, Croatia ranked 21st among wine producing countries with 180,000 tonnes.

On the islands and the Dalmatian coast, indigenous grape varietals, microclimates and the unique nature of the vineyards have lead to some highly individual wines, and some of Croatia’s best known such as Zlatan Plavac Grand Cru.

Plenkovic Winery

Plenkovic Winery is one of Croatia’s leading wineries. The vineyards are located on the steep slopes of  Hvar. Grapes are picked manually and there are absolutely no chemicals used for spraying. Only a small selection of grapes are used to ensure its quality.

In addition, the winery is currently in the process of obtaining the Croatian Organic Certificate.

Plenkovic Winery
http://www.zlatanotok.hr

Taste Profile

Full-bodied, rich, strong and ripe with powerful tannins. Flavors of plum, exotic berries, flowers, and dried fruits. Contains 15% alcohol.

Further Information

For more information regarding Zlatan Plavac Grand Cru and Croatia’s wine region, you can visit these websites as listed below.

A Mouthful of Wine: Hvar Island, Home of Croatia’s Grand Cru
http://mouthfulofwine.typepad.com/a_mouthful_of_wine/2007/08/hvar-island-hom.html

Tony Aspler: A Wine Lover’s Diary, Part 246
http://www.tonyaspler.com/pub/articleview.asp?id=1887&s=5

New Wine.com: Sampling Croatia
http://www.winenews.com/croatia.htm

Island Hvar
http://www.hvar.hr

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World's Largest Sausage?

Here’s something you don’t see everyday!

Last weekend, Croatians cooked up what they claim to be the world’s largest sausage measuring 530 metres.

Hundreds of locals gathered in the main square of Vinkovci in the country’s east and grilled the giant sausage, made with 400 kilograms of pork, 10 kilos of salt, 2.5 kilos of spices and 3.5 kilos of garlic bought for a local farm, the town hall said.

Organisers said the sausage was the world’s largest and could feed as many as 3000 people, but adding it was merely “training” for next year when they plan to produce a sausage measuring 1000 metres.

According to the Guinness Book of Records the longest-ever sausage made so far measured 392 metres and was made in Romania in December last year.

I guess we’ll just have to wait and see for the next record breaker.

Article information and photo from Agence France-Presse (AFP).

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