The Hungarian Girl » Hungarian wine

The legend of Bull’s Blood

The Hungarian Girl — Fri, 13 Jan 2012 01:00:15 +0000

Women of Eger by Bertalan Székely. The painting depicts the defence of the fortress, especially by the womenfolk.

There are a lot of legends about wine. Of the more strange and usual is the parallel with bull’s blood.

Bull’s blood also known locally as “Egri Bikavér” is a potent, dry red wine that is from the Eger wine region in northern Hungary. It is reputed to have earned its name from the 16th-century invasion by Ottoman ruler Suleiman the Magnificent.

During the invasion, Suleiman the Magnificent and his army of Turks attempted to siege of the Castle of Eger. The defending Hungarians, led by Captain István Dobó , were largely outnumbered by the evaders and the situation appeared dim. To build their strength the soldiers drank the wines from the cellars, spilling the red wine over their beards and armor turning it into the color of blood. As they continued their valiant fight, word spread among the Turks that the Hungarians were drinking the blood of bulls to make them strong. Eventually, the Turks gave up, and the victory at Eger was credited with dramatically reducing the threat of Ottoman expansion into northern and western Europe.

Though it’s likelier that the name Bull’s Blood didn’t begin to be used until much later or until it was coined by poet János Garay in the mid-1800s, the legend emphasizes the enduring tradition of Egri Bikavér and its importance to the region. Today, Egri Bikavér is still produced and is very popular espeically to those who seek it for the mystique of magical power as it suggests.

Getting to know Hungarian wines

Kristian Kielmayer — Fri, 29 Jul 2011 12:18:45 +0000

A wine tasting event being held at the Kodolanyi János University College in Hungary.

Learning about Hungarian wines can seem pretty daunting. All those hard-to-pronounce names, obscure labels, and a rather complex classification system, would even turn the most dedicated of wine enthusiasts away.

But if you’re willing to spend some time and effort, you’ll discover a very rewarding part of the wine world.

Here are some suggestions to get you started.

Taste

It might seem obvious but there’s no better or easier way than to simply try as much Hungarian wine as you can. Hungary produces a wide range of wines including reds, whites, rosés, as well as sparkling wines. Both international and indigenous varietals are grown throughout the country. This year Hungary adopted a new wine classification system according to EU standards. Wines are now classified as either ”protected designation of origin”, “protected geographical designation of origin” or “without geographical designation of origin”. A convenient way to get Hungarian wine is to buy on the Internet. This way, you’ll have a wider selection than what you could stumble upon at your local liquor store, plus you’ll have the convenience of ordering online and having the wine bottles delivered to your home.

Attend a wine festival

Hungary has several wine festivals. The largest is the Budapest International Wine Festival which occurs annually in September at the terraces of the Buda Castle. There is also several smaller wine festivals which offer local varieties and gastronomic specialties such as the Etyek Cellar Festival, Autumn in Tokaj, and the Villány Red Wine Festival. Some wine festivals require admission tickets which can be purchased either in advance or at the door.

Visit a wine region

Hungary has 22 distinct wine regions. By far the most prestigious wine region is Tokaj-Hegyalja, where the only Tokaji is produced at the southern part of the Zemplén mountains. Somló, one of the smallest and most beautiful wine regions in Hungary, is noted for its source of traditional native varieties, mostly but not all wood-aged white wines. In the southern part of Hungary near the Croatian border is Villany-Siklos, which produces some of the country’s best red wines. The easiest way to reach these regions is by train or car. Wineries are generally open for tastings and tours from May through October or just check out their website. It is best to make appointments with individual wineries ahead of time.

Enroll in a wine program

If you’re considering taking your interest in wine more seriously, you might want to enroll in a certified wine program. Hungary’s newest wine school, the Central European Wine Institute (CEWI) located in Budapest offers comprehensive courses for both locals and foreigners. Courses range from beginner to advance and some are based on the London Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET) teaching system. In addition, the Wine & Spirit Education Trust, has recently expanded their curriculum to include a new diploma course focused on the wines and spirits of Central Europe. The program is based in Austria with workshops held in Hungary.

Read

Although, there isn’t a significant amount of materials available especially in English, you can still find some excellent books on Hungarian wine and winemaking. “The Wines of Hungary” by Alex Liddell explores the history of Hungary’s wines, offering a full description of its grape varieties, viticulture, and winemaking techniques. If you’re interested in learning about Hungary’s sweet wines, “Tokaji: a Companion for the Bibulous Traveller” by David Copp features a comprehensive guide to the Tokaj-Hegyalja wine region, along with detailed information about its winemakers.

Noble rot: Hungary’s unlikely discovery

The Hungarian Girl — Mon, 17 Jan 2011 11:12:45 +0000

Noble rot is a form of grey fungus or mold that affects wine grapes. It forms on the skin of the grapes causing the grapes to shrivel, reducing moisture content and concentrating the sugar and flavor of the grapes.

Noble rot isn’t something that sounds very appealing to most people. However, this form of grey fungus or mold in grapes is the essential factor in helping to create sweet wines. When carefully cultivated, it causes the grape to shrivel which concentrates and intensifies both the sugar and flavor.

According to legend, the first written account of a sweet wine made from grapes infected with noble rot occurred in the mid-1600′s in the Tokaj region of Hungary. Abbott Maté Szepsi, priest in charge of production at the Zssuzsanna Lorántfly estate, ordered the harvest to be delayed because he feared an attack from the Turks. He harvested and vinified the putrefied grapes separately, and soon discovered its benefits in creating sweeter wines. However, word of wine made from botrytised grapes had already appeared in the Nomenklatura of Fabricius Balázs Sziksai, which was completed in 1576.

Almost a century later, Tokaji became the leading wine across the Royal Courts of France and Russia.

Sparkling Wine for New Year’s Eve

The Hungarian Girl — Tue, 28 Dec 2010 22:05:36 +0000

Törley is Hungary’s leading sparkling wine producer. In 1882, a new champagne producing center emerged in Budafok, Hungary under the name of "József Törley and Co."

New Year’s Eve is the night that sparkling wine takes center stage. Although, sparkling wine from the Champagne region of France are most renowned, great sparklers can also be found and enjoyed throughout Central and Eastern Europe. Here are three exciting bottles.

Austria

Szigeti Grüner Veltliner Brut
As Austria’s signature grape variety, Grüner Veltliner is now being made into quality sparkling wines. This wine is delicate and flavorful with an invigorating finish. It makes a perfect bubbly.

Hungary

Törley Grand Cuvee Brut
Törley is Hungary’s leading sparkling wine producer dating back to 1882. It’s orginal founder József Törley is credited as having established one of the most successful brands of sparkling wine outside of the champagne region in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. This sparkling wine is delicate, well balanced, and refreshing.

Slovenia

Radgona Gold Demi Sec
Another worthy gem. This wine is produced from the Slovenske gorice region in Slovenia. Very smooth and elegant.

Wine Spotlight: 2009 Hétszölö Tokaji Furmint

The Hungarian Girl — Tue, 02 Nov 2010 04:05:39 +0000

2009 Hétszölö Tokaji Furmint

Tokaj is famed for its intense sweet wines but there also many other styles to appreciate from the region. In particular, dry wines from the single variety of Furmint. Many of these wines can be of good quality, possessing excellent acidity and flavour.

This week, I decided to try a 2009 Tokaji Furmint from Hétszölö. This winery has a long and distinguished reputation in Hungary. It was originally created in 1502 by the Garay family who purchased seven plots of land, hence the name Hétszölö, which means seven vineyards. Today, the winery is owned by Michel Reybier.

Winery: The Imperial Domain of Hétszölö
Region: Tokaj
Country: Hungary
Varietal: Furmint
Type: White Wine
Alcohol: 15%
Price: Under $15
Pair With: Fish, poultry, roasted duck and game. It also goes well with fruit tarts and other desserts.
Tasting Notes: This wine has a light yellow color. Lacks aromatic intensity but makes up for it by its fruity notes. Overall, this is a fairly good wine for those looking to savor a refreshing and crisp taste with a light meal.

Origins of the Hungarian Word for Wine

Kristian Kielmayer — Fri, 15 Oct 2010 12:34:54 +0000

Wine is such an easily recognizable term known around the word. Hear a variation and you can easily determine that wine is being described. In Spanish and Italian its known as ‘vino’, in German its ‘Wein’, in French its ‘vin’ and so on.

Bor, on the other hand is the Hungarian word for wine. How many people would have guessed that this is the term for wine? Hungary is only one of a small handful of nations that don’t have its basis for the word “wine” coming from the Latin ‘vinum’. Why does Hungary use this term for wine and not a variation of vinum, even after Rome’s influence in the region? Hungary’s term for wine is as unique and different as the culture itself and can be traced back in its roots as a people.

Vineyard in the Zemplen Mountains near Tokaj, Hungary.

Bor is a signficantly important word in Hungarian. As my first mentor and very good friend Dr. Robert Cey-Bert explained it to me, the term itself is full of mystery but what is known is that it has its origins stemming back to the Huns. He reckons that the first written Hungarian words were the combinations of the words ‘Tengri” meaning sky God or Heaven and wine, “Bor-Tengri”. It was first mentioned in the Chinese chronicles according to Jean-Paul Roux: La religion des Turcs et des Mongoles where it was described that a mountain, itself called Bor Tengri, was the place where they did sacrifices to God & Heaven and wine was an important element in the ceremony. Wine was highly respected by the Huns as a method of connectivity to God. Let me explain further.

Bor-Tengri was not only the place to worship the God of the Heavens but also ”Re-birth”, as the Chinese chronicles states and analyzing further, the term is not only referring to the mountain but also in worship of God’s transformation of the sky - the cycle of dawn and dusk. Further to this relation to transformation is also symbolically referring to the production process of wine, transferring from grape juice after fermentation into Bor, the end result of this rebirth process.

To the Huns, the combination of the mountain and grapes growing on it showed the power of God. Like many other wine making nations, vineyards planted on hill sites in Hungary have special purpose and the Huns recognized this. Although, grapes grown on mountain sides do mean harder work for the wine maker, less usage of mechanization tools and threat of erosion, the benefits yield higher quality due to exposure, shallower soil (lower vigour), micro climate and topography (air drainage). In terms of wine, mountains exhibited God like powers of production and quality.

From right to left: Dr. Robert Cey-Bert, in the middle Béla Fekete outstanding wine maker from the Somló region and far left the author, Kristian Kielmayer.

Bacchus amat colles, “Bacchus loves the hills” – was the proverb in ancient Rome reinforcing historically this knowledge. If you look at the Hungarian wine regions today, the best and most famous are planted on hills and hill sides including Tokaj-Hegyalja (hegyalja meaning foothills), Balaton-highlands, Somló, Badacsony, Szekszárd and many others. The biggest wine region today the Great Plain (Alföld) which is mainly on flat land was planted extensively after the phylloxera as the root feeding aphid can do little damage in sand.

The connection of God and wine has always been strong in Hungary. The Carpathian basin which had and still does have a remarkable potential to produce some of the most exciting wines in conjunction with the unique grape varieties furthering the pride in Hungarians that God has chosen their land. There was a good reason when Kál horka (horka meaning tribe leader) settled down in what is now known today as the Káli basin of the Balaton-highlands with its gorgeous volcanic mountain, ideal for viticulture and worship of God & wine. Even after the Hungarians took on the Christian religion, wine still continued to play an important role in Hungarian faith and culture.

Wine has and always will be an integral part of Hungarian culture. Despite all the devastation of the past, such as phylloxera and more then 50 years of communist rule, Hungarian wines have always managed to resurface and thrive again. My friend Robert Cey-Bert therefore calls the Hungarian wines (if he has to use one word to describe them symbolically): Rebirth.

In my final mark, when partaking of Hungarian wine, before you let the glasses clink instead of using the tongue breaker “egészségedre” (which means “to your health – cheers”) use instead twice the Hungarian word of God in honor of Bor’s ancient past: Isten-Isten!

Hungarian wine facts

The Hungarian Girl — Tue, 20 Jul 2010 15:14:00 +0000

Hand-crafted Hungarian wine bottles.

Hungary may not be the most well-known wine producing nation. However, it has certainly contributed to many aspects of wine and winemaking.

Here are some facts about wine in Hungary.

• Only three European languages have words for wine: Latin, Greek, and Hungarian.

• Vines believed to be indigenous to the region were first cultivated in Roman Times.

• Hungary is one of the few countries in the world where it’s entire land can be used for vine growing.

• There are currently 22 wine regions in Hungary.

• More than 60 percent of total wine production is white, although red wines are growing more popular and their production is increasing.

• The most well known dry red wine of Hungary is Egri Bikaver, bull’s blood of Eger.

• The vineyards of Tokaj were the first in the world to be classified according to quality.

• Throughout the 17th and 18th century, Tokaji aszu was a cherished commodity enjoyed by the royals of Europe.

• In the Hungarian National Anthem, the poet Ferenc Kölcsey (1790-1838) wrote about the country’s most precious gifts. Included is the wine of Tokaji: “In the grape fields of Tokaj, You dripped sweet nectar.”

• Somló is the smallest wine region in Hungary.

• California’s wine industry was jumpstarted by Hungarian immigrant, Ágoston Haraszthy, who shipped 300 different vine cuttings in 1861.

• Hungarian viticulturalist Zsigmond Teleki became world-famous by finding disease resistant varieties during the philoxeria epidemic that swept through Europe in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s.

• Hungary’s 22 wine regions lie between the same parallels as France’s Champagne and Bordeaux.

• The word for wine in Hungarian is “bor.”

VinAgora Wine Gala

The Hungarian Girl — Mon, 28 Jun 2010 11:44:06 +0000

VinAgora Wine Gala

If your a Hungarian wine connoisseur, you don’t want to miss this event!

The 3rd annual VinAgora Wine Gala will be happening on July 3rd, 2010 in Budapest at the Applied Arts Museum.

The all-day gala provides an opportunity for the public to taste the more than 500 wines entered into the VinAgora Wine Competition. After the medals and awards have been give out, visitors can compare their opinions with that of the experts.

All of the wines will be presented with the detailed results they received such as score, wine profile, and bouquet list. Those of you who wish to learn even more can take part in 50-minute themed wine tastings as well, where experts of the field will guide visitors through a selection of wines which achieved outstanding results at the competition.

For more information about the gala, visit the Hungarian Viniculture Public Benefit Company website. Tickets can be purchased at Jegymester.

Hungary and Slovakia battle over Tokaji Wine

The Hungarian Girl — Sun, 16 May 2010 14:05:54 +0000

Tokaji wine became the subject of the world's first appellation control which was established several decades before Port wine, and over 120 years before the classification of Bordeaux.

For over fifty years, there has been a long-running dispute between Hungary and Slovakia over the wine term “Tokaj”.

The issue has heated up after the European Commission had recently given Slovakia the go-ahead for registering one of its wine regions, hitherto known as Tokajská Vonohradnícka Oblast under the name of Vinohradnícka Oblast Tokaj.

Tokaji in Hungarian, hailed as “the king of wines and the wine of kings” by King Louis XIV of France, has been produced for centuries in the north-east of Hungary, at the southern part of the Zemplén mountains. It was declared a World Heritage Site in 2002 on account for its viticulture traditions and landscape. The region is also the first in the world to produce wine from botrytized grapes.

The Tokaj region was redefined in 1908 and was split up in 1918, with the majority of vineyards going to Hungary and a small section of vineyards going to Czechoslovakia which is now Slovakia today. In 1959, as part of the Treaty of Trianon from World War I, four more villages were added to Czechoslovak, three of which had been mentioned in the original 1798 Tokaj delineation. The exact number of hectares within Slovakia is under dispute as well.

Slovakia had previously asked to officially register the term “Tokaj” in Slovak, but the request had been rejected by the European Commission. However, the current agreement would give Slovakia similar rights as Hungary for regulation and quality control over the wine. Many Hungarian producers are concerned the reputation of their vintage wines could be jeopardized. Although, Slovakians producers say their region is at a disadvantage due to the strict regulations imposed upon them.

In the past, EU regulations on geographical indication ordered French and Italian producers to relinquish using the Tokaji brand name, including its spelling varieties. It was also later proven that those wines had no correlation to Hungarian Tokaji wine. The European Union also settled the issue with Australia and the United States and both countries agreed to phase out the use of the Tokaji brand name.

The situation with Slovakia where about 10 per cent of the Tokaji region resides reminds yet to be resolved for both countries with further proceedings set to take place later this month.

Hungarian Grape Varietals

The Hungarian Girl — Mon, 29 Mar 2010 03:40:43 +0000

Kékfrankos, a late-ripening variety known for producing wines that are spicy with rich tannins. It is the most widely planted red variety in Hungary.

Hungary has a broad range of both indigenous and international grape varietals.

The following is a brief list of the various grape varietals used in making Hungarian wine.

White

Cserszegi Füszeres: A hybrid of Irsai Olivér and Tramini, this white grape yields highly aromatic wines, with a bouquet that is often compared to wild flowers. It is particularly known in the Alföld, Etyek-Buda and North Balaton regions.

Ezerjó: Literally meaning “thousand blessings“, this white wine grape is grown primarily in the Mór region where it is used to make sweet dessert wines.

Furmint: Furmint is the most widely grown varietal in the country particularly within the Tokaj-Hegyalja region. It is believed the grape was first introduced by Walloon growers in the thirteenth century following the Tartar invasions. The vine’s name is taken from the word “froment,” for the wheat-gold color of the wine it produces. Furmint can be produced in a variety of styles ranging from dry to sweet wines afflicted by noble rot. It is also grown in Austria where it is known as “Mosler.”

Hárslevelü: Referring to “linden leaf“, Hárslevelü is native to the Carpathian Basin and is planted in several Hungarian wine regions, but most prominently in the tiny wine region of Somló, and especially in Tokaj-Hegyalja, where it is blended with Furmint to produce Tokaji Aszú and other dessert wines. It’s best known wines are mellow, gentle and honey-flavored.

Irsai Oliver: A cross between Pozsonyi and Pearl of Csaba. Irsai Oliver is known for its distinctive Muscat character and is generally drunk young.

Juhfark: Juhfark in Hungarian literally means “sheep’s tail.” The term refers to the elongated, cylindrical shape of the vine clusters. It is exclusively planted in Hungary, most prominently in the region of Somló where the volcanic soil enables wines to have a high mineral content.

Kabar: Also known under its research name as Tarcal 10, Kabar is an early-ripening cross of Hárslevelü and Bouvier and was recently authorised for production in the Tokaj-Hegyalja region.

Királyleányka: Királyleányka is a rare white grape that originated in Transylvania, as a cross between Kövérszolo and Leányka. It is mainly grown in the regions of Balatonboglár, Etyek, Neszmély and Pannonhalma-Sokoróalja which are well-balanced, full-bodied wines.

Leányka: This ancient white grape variety has been cultivated for centuries by Hungarian vinters. It yields a greenish-white wine that is aromatic, fiery, and fresh. Leányka grows mainly in the Eger region.

Olaszrizling: Olaszrizling is the Hungarian name for Italian Riesling or Welschriesling. It is the most widespread white grape of Hungary and can be found in almost every region in the country, with expectional wines in Szent György Hill and Csopak.

Zéta: Previously called Oremus, this grapeis a blend of Furmint and Bouvier. It is sometimes used in Aszu production.

Zöldveltelini: Zöldveltelini is the Hungarian name for Grüner Veltliner, a white grape variety that is common in Austria and grown in some parts of the Czech Republic. It has a reputation of being extremely versatile with food.

Red

Kadarka: Kadarka used to be an important constituent of the Hungarian red cuvée Bull’s Blood of Eger or Szekszárd, but has long been in decline in Hungarian plantations, to be replaced by Kékfrankos and Portugieser. It is also grown in Bulgaria under the name “Gamza.”

Kékfrankos: More commonly known as “Blaufränkisch”in Germany, this red grape produces wines that are spicy in character with rich tannins. Some of the best examples of Kékfrankos come from the southern regions of Villány-Siklos and Szekszárd.

Portugieser: Formerly known as Kékoportó, this grape has been renamed Portugieser in recent years. The grape is common in the regions of Villány-Siklos and Eger, and is one of the permitted varieties in the Egri Bikavér (Bull’s Blood) blend.

Turán: Turán is grown mainly in Eger. It yields wines that have high sugar levels which are velvety and rich in tannins. The grape is also grown in Western Canada under the name “Agria.”