The Hungarian Girl » Tokaji

What to drink in Hungary

The Hungarian Girl — Thu, 13 Oct 2011 12:48:01 +0000

Bottles of palinka for sale at a wine shop in Budapest. Palinka is one of Hungary's most prized drinks.

Hungary has a vast array of alcoholic beverages including quality wines and beers, as well as liqueurs and brandies that are made exclusively in the country.

Here are a few suggestions of various drinks to try.

Egészségedre! (Cheers!)

Palinka

Produced in both Hungary and Transylvania, this traditional brandy is made from various kinds of fruit such as plums, pears, apricots, mulberries or quinces. It is consumed at all hours of the day, but is particularly popular as an after work or after dinner drink. A must try!

Wine

Hungary is famous for its excellent wines. There are 22 distinct wine regions across the country which produce the full spectrum of wine styles including reds, whites, roses, and sparkling wines. Tokaji Aszu, which comes from the Tokaj region, is Hungary most famous wine and is even mentioned in the Hungarian national anthem. Other wines include full-bodied, robust reds from Villány-Siklós and Szekszárd, while Somló and Badacsony is regarded for its mineral rich whites.

Beer

Although Hungary is better known as a wine-producing country, beer has been made here for over a thousand years and the country has a significant history of commercial beer production. Top domestic brands include Arany Ászok, Kobányai (the first commercial brewery in Hungary that was established in Buda in 1845), Borsodi, Soproni and Dreher. A number of small microbreweries have also emerged in recent years.

Spritzer

Spritzer also known as fröccs in Hungarian, is a popular drink in Hungary that is mixed from wine and soda water in varying proportions. The most common is the basic classic, known as the “nagy“, or large, fröccs. This is a mix of two parts wine to one part soda water, a third of a litre in size. Fröccs is especially ideal for the summer.

Unicum

This traditional bitter liqueur has been produced by the Zwach family for over 150 years. It is a blend of 40 different herbs, based on an old secret recipe. Unicum is sold in a characteristic bomb-shaped bottle which features a golden cross on the front. Usually drunk as an apéritif, Unicum is an acquired taste.

Hungarian wine gets royal wedding approval by wine critic Mark Oldman

The Hungarian Girl — Thu, 28 Apr 2011 08:30:36 +0000

Royal Tokaji Wine Company’s Red Label 5 puttonyos.

Drink Bravely TV launched a new webisode on Tuesday featuring a selection of “royal wines” in anticipation of the royal wedding of Prince William and Kate Middleton this Friday.

The video which is the 39th webisode in the series has internationally recognized wine personality Mark Oldman discussing eight wines fit for the historic event. Among the royally appropriate wines chosen was a bottle of Royal Tokaji Wine Company’s Red Label 5 puttonyos (Hungary, 500ml). Oldman stated, “This is the sort of dessert wine that ranks up there as the world’s best.”

Other wines selected were Elisabeth Goutorbe Brut Champagne 2005 (France), Chateau Laboure Roi Bourgogne Blanc 2008 (France), JAQK Chardonnay “Her Majesty” 2007 (California), Koyle “Royale” Cabernet Sauvignon Colchagua 2007 (Chile) ,Novy “Oley” Late Harvest Viognier 2009 (California) and Forlorn Hope “La Gitana” Torrontes 2009 (California).

To watch the video, visit Mark Oldman

Furmint February: tasting notes

Kristian Kielmayer — Tue, 26 Apr 2011 17:02:07 +0000

Furmint February Tasting at the at the Vajdahunyad Castle in Budapest. Photo courtesy of Vinoport.hu.

A few months ago I had the privilege of attending one of the largest tastings for Furmint wines in Hungary, organized by Vinoport at the Vajdahunyad Castle in Budapest.

Furmint is one the most widely grown varietals in Hungary particularly within the Tokaj-Hegyalja region. It’s also found in Austria where it is also known as Mosler. Smaller plantings are found in Slovenia where it is known as šipon. It can be produced in a variety of styles ranging from dry to sweet wines afflicted by noble rot.

One of my favorite winemakers in Hungary- the Fekete winery from the Somló region was present at the festival. Uncle Béla, the owner, as everybody calls him makes some pretty unique wines. He re-introduced the Juhfark variety and his Hárslevelü is simply delicious, especially in great vintages, a synergy with Mother Nature, terroir of the big Somló. The wines in Somló can be compared in many ways to Furmint in Tokaji but here the style is a bit more defined, universally high in acidity, slightly lower alcohol and body, perhaps with a more marked minerality as well.

Photo courtesy of Vinoport.hu.

It was also great to see many smaller and lesser known producers from the Tokaj region. Many of them I never heard of as they bottle only in small quantities including the family-owned Gizella winery which showcased their Szil Valley Furmint 2009 Tarcal. This wine is harvested from old bush vines with a medium high density (6000 vines/ha). They only produce 600 bottles. It had ripe fruit on the nose with a dry start on the palate yet the alcohol was high (14% ABV) but also balanced with some coconut and tropical fruit combination showing up in the wine with a fairly long finish.

There was also the Zöld birtok (green estate) winery and as the name suggests it’s organic which means only sulphur and copper is used in small quantities during the winemaking process. András the winemaker explained how producing organic wines can be difficult as the administrative process consumes a lot of time and money.

Another great example was Pók Tamás from Eger, who is a very knowledgeable winemaker but at the same very humble and open. His Pajados 2009 was a blend of Hárslevelü and Furmint. Although, Tamás agreed a bit more acidity would have been better to supplement the wine’s texture and body, as the Hárslevelü somewhat tempered the Furmint. Yet the wine is very young having been bottled only few weeks ago. I think a bit of aging will certainly bring it to its full potential.

There were a couple of guest producers that showed their wines as well. The Wenzel winery from Rust, Austria, had a fantastic range of Furmint wines. This estate, which is one of the oldest in town, is run by Robert and Christa Wenzel and their son Michael. I first met Robert Wenzel in Budapest during a Ruster Circle tasting where I had the honor to help out as an interpreter and taste his famous Satz. This night his son demonstrated the Furmint Vogelsang. They get several of the cuttings from Istvan Szepsy, a Hungarian winemaker from Tokaj who is regarded for his ground-breaking work in producing complex sweet wines and some of the most intense dry wines in the world.

From Slovenia, there was Mojca Gorjak. She represented very enthusiastically the Slovenian wines on that evening, being full of energy explaining not only the wines but also the wine tourism side of the country. Worth a visit! The Hlebec Milan 2007 fermented in wooden barrels with low temperature; it showed some pine raisin, wild honey, slightly oil attack on the palate, dry and with a rather medium acidity, round yet simple finish.

I would also like to give an honorable mention to the Bott Határi Furmint which showed plenty of complex notes with a great finesse and balance between acidity and fruit.

Overall, this was a fantastic tasting. I do hope this event will continue next year or perhaps extend itself to a roadshow across Hungary. There is so much to explore with Furmint which is just beginning to emerge in the global wine market. So, stay tuned!

Noble rot: Hungary’s unlikely discovery

The Hungarian Girl — Mon, 17 Jan 2011 11:12:45 +0000

Noble rot is a form of grey fungus or mold that affects wine grapes. It forms on the skin of the grapes causing the grapes to shrivel, reducing moisture content and concentrating the sugar and flavor of the grapes.

Noble rot isn’t something that sounds very appealing to most people. However, this form of grey fungus or mold in grapes is the essential factor in helping to create sweet wines. When carefully cultivated, it causes the grape to shrivel which concentrates and intensifies both the sugar and flavor.

According to legend, the first written account of a sweet wine made from grapes infected with noble rot occurred in the mid-1600′s in the Tokaj region of Hungary. Abbott Maté Szepsi, priest in charge of production at the Zssuzsanna Lorántfly estate, ordered the harvest to be delayed because he feared an attack from the Turks. He harvested and vinified the putrefied grapes separately, and soon discovered its benefits in creating sweeter wines. However, word of wine made from botrytised grapes had already appeared in the Nomenklatura of Fabricius Balázs Sziksai, which was completed in 1576.

Almost a century later, Tokaji became the leading wine across the Royal Courts of France and Russia.

Wine Spotlight: 2009 Hétszölö Tokaji Furmint

The Hungarian Girl — Tue, 02 Nov 2010 04:05:39 +0000

2009 Hétszölö Tokaji Furmint

Tokaj is famed for its intense sweet wines but there also many other styles to appreciate from the region. In particular, dry wines from the single variety of Furmint. Many of these wines can be of good quality, possessing excellent acidity and flavour.

This week, I decided to try a 2009 Tokaji Furmint from Hétszölö. This winery has a long and distinguished reputation in Hungary. It was originally created in 1502 by the Garay family who purchased seven plots of land, hence the name Hétszölö, which means seven vineyards. Today, the winery is owned by Michel Reybier.

Winery: The Imperial Domain of Hétszölö
Region: Tokaj
Country: Hungary
Varietal: Furmint
Type: White Wine
Alcohol: 15%
Price: Under $15
Pair With: Fish, poultry, roasted duck and game. It also goes well with fruit tarts and other desserts.
Tasting Notes: This wine has a light yellow color. Lacks aromatic intensity but makes up for it by its fruity notes. Overall, this is a fairly good wine for those looking to savor a refreshing and crisp taste with a light meal.

Tokaji Wine: Fame, Fate, Tradition by Miles Lambert-Gocs

The Hungarian Girl — Mon, 13 Sep 2010 20:51:17 +0000

If you’re a Tokaji wine connoisseur, this book is a must read! Written by Miles Lambert-Gocs who has spent over three decades researching Hungary’s most famous wine, Tokaji Wine: Fame, Fate, Tradition is one of the few books that focuses exclusively on this subject in such extensive detail.

Arranged an encyclopedic format, it consists of four categories: People; Places; Vineyard-Tracts; Grape Varieties and Wine-making. Each section concludes with essays that tie the entries together.

Everything from historical references to specifics about the Tokaji wine making process is covered within this book. There is a lot more information about Tokaji wine than most people can imagine including its influence on Europe’s elite and its inter-ethnic achievements.

As Lambert-Gocs suggests, “for anyone who wants to have a context in which to understand Tokaji, it is not enough just to pore over appellation-zone maps and topographical features.” Through his remarkable research and insight, readers can expect to develop a greater understanding and appreciation for Tokaji wine.

Hungarian & Central European Wine Workshops – Fall 2010

The Hungarian Girl — Wed, 08 Sep 2010 18:16:37 +0000

If your looking to learn more about Hungarian or Central European wines, here’s your chance to do it. The following below is a list of workshops and events that are happening this fall. Please contact the event organizers directly for more information or to register.

Stetson Robbins with wine producer Szoeke Matyas in the Márta district. Photo courtesy of Blue Danube Wine Company.

Central Europe Jewels

Explore indigenous wines of Central Europe with Stetson Robbins of Blue Danube Wine Company. Try the terroir-driven dry and sweet Furmint grape of Tokaji, Hungary; an appellation older than Bordeaux. Explore the spicy, distinctive Zinfandel related Plavac Mali from the ocean-facing vineyards of Southern Croatia. And taste small production Slovenian wines from family producers farming and making wine in an ancient region the Romans fought wars over. The grapes may be unpro- nounceable but the wines are delicious. Come see for yourself and get a great introduction to wines that are still obscure and undiscovered treasures for so many.
Location: Via Cafe (Chinatown), 451 Gin Ling Way, Los Angeles, CA 90012
Date: Wednesday September 15
Time: 7:00-9:00pm
Contact: Visit the Wine Wine Discoveries Exploration website to register or for more details.

Tokaji and Eger Wine Tasting

Ben Howkins, Co-founder and Director of the Royal Tokaji Wine Company, introduces us to the Hungarian wine-producing regions of Tokaj and Eger, and leads this special wine-tasting event where we sample the favourite wine of Joseph Haydn, Bram Stoker, and King Louis XIV.
Location: Royal Academy of Arts, Burlington House, Piccadilly, London, W1J 0BD
Date: Friday November 19
Time: 6:30pm
Contact: Visit the Royal Academy of Arts website to register.

Austro-Hungarian Seminar & Tasting

The Institute of Masters of Wine is hosting a seminar and tasting of wines from Austria and Hungary in London. Organised in partnership with the Austrian Wine Marketing Board, Wines of Hungary and the Esterházy Foundation, the seminar will include discussions about dry white wines, dry red wines, and sweet wines from both countries.
Location: The Institute of Masters of Wine, 2-3 Philpot Lane, London, EC3M 8AN
Date: Tuesday Saturday October 12
Time: 10:00am – 2:30pm
Contact: Visit the Institute of Masters of Wine website.

The Brotherhood of the Volcanoes, Tokaj-Hegyalja

Kristian Kielmayer — Wed, 01 Sep 2010 00:22:16 +0000

Vineyards in the village of Mád. The area where Tokaji wine is traditionally grown is a small plateau, 457 m (1500 ft) above sea level, near the Carpathian Mountains. The soil is of volcanic origin containing iron and lime.

Why is Tokaj so special? Is it the soil, is it the climate or is it the grape varieties and the people?

All these factors and much more (including the very technology used in making Tokaji) play an important role.

While the expertise of winemakers can develop, grape varieties themselves can travel and even climate can change, one thing remains very much unique to Tokaj - the soil. Its true that people who work on the soil and certain alterations can modify the outcome (e.g. fertilization) but the sub soil is pretty much the same. Some argue the types of effects the mineral composition of the soil has on the finished wine and, if I wish to simplify, there is a new world vs. old world opinion to this as well. Yet, based on tastings from the most famous white wine regions of Hungary such as Somló, Balaton-Highlands (including Badacsony, Szt. György) and of course Tokaj-Hegyalja (Foothills of Tokaj), the soil plays a major role not only in the nutrient uptake but also the character of the finished wine.

So what constitutes a volcanic soil? A combination of rocks which is a product of volcanic eruption. In the case of Tokaj-Hegyalja, there were more then 400 little volcanoes which shaped the region. Volcanic rocks have many different forms, in Tokaj this varies from andesite, basalt, rhyolit, tuff, nyirok (sort of a red clay), and zeolite. Then there is also loess, limestone, marl, gneiss and much more. Loess is usually a wind blown fine-grained mix of clay and silt. Wines coming from this part of soil are usually lighter in body and softer texture but elegant and refined. Such examples are the wines of the Hétszölö estate. The colour of rhyolite of the volcanic soil varies from white to red, yellow and darker grey. In the district of Mád there are many prime examples of such soil and fantastic wines, full bodied with plenty of density and complexity such as the wines of István Szepsy.

Example of brown forest soil formed on a volcanic base from the Királyudvar Winery.

Tokaj-Hegyalja region was classified amongst the very first in the world, the vineyards have a strict hierarchy and some are better then others. However, today such “official” classification does not exist as it once did which is a great shame – if I’m honest. The wine region is located in the North-East corner of Hungary, approximately 200 km from the capital, Budapest, near the borders of Slovakia and Ukraine. Slopes are facing mainly South-East, the region is between the Hernád and Bodrog rivers while many other smaller and larger rivers also pass through the region.

These rivers play an important role in the foundation of the “noble rot”, the botrytis cinerea, which is a key component in making the famous sweet wine, the aszús, sweet szamorodnis and esszencia. The convergence of these waterways bring forth humidity, fog and warmth which create the right balance of conditions that produce this noble rot. Botrytis is the fungus which is responsible for penetrating through the healthy grape’s stomata while consuming sugar and acidity but at the same time dehydration takes place whereby water evaporates and the juice is concentrated creating more glycerol, laccase and enzymes. The cinerea refers to the unappetizing ash like looking powder on the grape skin giving it the rotten appearance. Normally grapes in this condition would never be used in wine production but in fact because of this process the end result makes a very complex and sweet wine.

Another contribution to the unique style of Tokaj is the grape varieties used. You could apply Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon or even Chardonnay to make sweet wine but why? Why would you use them when you have Furmint, Hárslevelü? Grape varieties are the tool to represent the origin and the typicity. Hungaricum, meaning Hungarian grape varieties either by history and tradition or crossing (breeding), play an important role to achieve something great. In the case of Tokaj, there is also something else which is not practiced anywhere else in the world, the technique utilized in making the aszú wines.

The botrytis affected grapes are picked separately and while this is nothing special as it’s similarily done in Germany, Austria and France, the maceration with the dry wine or must is different. This means that from the aszú berries they make a sort of “pastry dough” and from here there are 3 different ways to go forward. You can either macerate the aszú berries, pastry in unfermented must, add fermenting must or add a dry base wine. Pannon Tokaj for instance works with fermenting must because they believe that the CO2 during fermentation helps to release more flavours from the aszú berries. The tricky question with the aszú wines is when it comes to the above mentioned classification, that many of the shrivelled berries come from smaller growers and a lot of different vineyards too.

The Tokaj-Hegyalja wine region is very diverse with a lot of different soil formations with higher quality then others such as “rhyolit” - a clear and bright soil and “zeolit” which has a superior drainage, water conducting and heat retaining quality. Tokaj-Hegyalja is not just an exciting wine region in Hungary but also one of the most stunning in the world because of its terroir. The harmony between soil, climate, variety and the people create these outstanding dry white wines and remarkable aszús.

The Budapest International Wine Festival

The Hungarian Girl — Wed, 01 Sep 2010 00:19:53 +0000

Hungary’s largest and most prestigious wine festival is happening from September 8th – 12th located in terraces of the Buda Castle Palace (Budavári Palota).

The festival features over 1,000 wines from across the country and the world. Vistiors will have the opportinity to learn about the history of Hungarian wine making and meet renowned wine makers. Traditional Hungarian music and gastronomic delights are part of the 5-day festival. Several wine workshops and lectures are also held.

A charity wine auction wraps up the event, with proceeds donated to the Hungarian Maltese Charity Service.

For more information including tickets, visit the aborfesztival website.

Hungarian wine facts

The Hungarian Girl — Tue, 20 Jul 2010 15:14:00 +0000

Hand-crafted Hungarian wine bottles.

Hungary may not be the most well-known wine producing nation. However, it has certainly contributed to many aspects of wine and winemaking.

Here are some facts about wine in Hungary.

• Only three European languages have words for wine: Latin, Greek, and Hungarian.

• Vines believed to be indigenous to the region were first cultivated in Roman Times.

• Hungary is one of the few countries in the world where it’s entire land can be used for vine growing.

• There are currently 22 wine regions in Hungary.

• More than 60 percent of total wine production is white, although red wines are growing more popular and their production is increasing.

• The most well known dry red wine of Hungary is Egri Bikaver, bull’s blood of Eger.

• The vineyards of Tokaj were the first in the world to be classified according to quality.

• Throughout the 17th and 18th century, Tokaji aszu was a cherished commodity enjoyed by the royals of Europe.

• In the Hungarian National Anthem, the poet Ferenc Kölcsey (1790-1838) wrote about the country’s most precious gifts. Included is the wine of Tokaji: “In the grape fields of Tokaj, You dripped sweet nectar.”

• Somló is the smallest wine region in Hungary.

• California’s wine industry was jumpstarted by Hungarian immigrant, Ágoston Haraszthy, who shipped 300 different vine cuttings in 1861.

• Hungarian viticulturalist Zsigmond Teleki became world-famous by finding disease resistant varieties during the philoxeria epidemic that swept through Europe in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s.

• Hungary’s 22 wine regions lie between the same parallels as France’s Champagne and Bordeaux.

• The word for wine in Hungarian is “bor.”